Shop heat

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On Sun, 6 Nov 2005 04:49:20 -0800, Larry Blanchard

Mine's about 120 sq ft ...less until I get rid of the scrap wood. I use a 220v barn heater if doing a short term job, but cank up the wood stove if longer. I have a 120v baseboard heater chugging along on bottom low all year to stop getting too hot/cold causing rust problems [on the saw, not me], but not warm enough to work in. The shop is well insulated. It has to be at 40 below. But with the stove on I can live there, and have the boys in for some tall tales about what we're gonna build.
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I've been thinking of getting the HVAC company out to install a gas- fired system for the garage, the kind with the flame stream separate from the shop environment. But I think it's going to be kind of steep, I guess around a grand or so.

Yeah, I've learned a lot here too. There are some guys here who really know their stuff. Shucks, some even write articles that are published ;-)
Even the OT threads are amusing, but it's like spitting in the wind to participate in them.
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I doubt you'll get a condensing furnace installed for $1000. Labor is a good chunk of the cost. Does your shop even have propane or natural gas piped to it?
Brian Elfert
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That squirrel cage and fan mtr should just slide out of the furnace. And a new mtr should be available from granger . If not then a motor shop. Cheaper than a new furnace. Also check some of the HVAC mechanics and see if anyone is replacing a furnace . Maybe be able to buy it. But a new 10 kw furnace might cost 5-6 hundred. Find a mechanic going into one of the supply houses and offer him $50 if he will buy one from th supply house for you. Not all will do it but just like fishing you put the right bait out there you will get a bite. Course you need cash for him to buy it. Give it a shot. How much the equipment in the shop worth? $10 G s? Need to protect it.
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Snow's falling, Shop's calling Heat by wood Is very good.
I love my basement.
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George said:
<snip>

As well you should.. ;-)
Used to live in an older home - wood was the sole source of heat. Didn't die - didn't pay a lot of money for fuel, either. My turnings gone awry and scrap should be worth a _few_ BTU's.
Greg G.
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Greg G. wrote:

winters. If it is all you have, it modifies your schedule--can't stay gone more than 24 hours in NY winters without someone coming in to feed the fire and haul ashes, etc. I had reached the stage where I bought wood by the truckload--logging truck--to keep from having to chase it down. A chainsaw, some splitting wedges and a couple mauls (at least a couple as I have a real handle busting talent) and $150 would cover a very warm winter.
And then there was the winter when the guy showed up with about a dozen 11-12" diameter sycamore logs. Green wasn't in it.
Shivered a lot with stuff. It's much better for woodworking.
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I have 2 radiant heaters... One is a two burner "MR. Heater" propane, the other is designed to be mounted on a wall, has three ceramic elements that can be used like low, medium and high. and also runs on propane. I made a rolling "stand" to mount it, and carry two bottles with a self switching valve. Placing one at each end of the area I'm working in does the job well. The main disadvantage for me is the uninsulated metal roof will begin to "rain" if they are left on for an extended period. My building "leaks" enough air so carbon monoxide is not a threat, and I avoid flammable sprays etc. if they are lit. A pic can be posted if you desire. Tom
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Well Charlie, My comment is of no help at all but if you were in Houston you could heat the shop in the winter by simply opening your outside door to let the air in. ;~)
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Leon said:

Yea, but how do you keep the floodwaters and crickets out of the shop?
Greg G.
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