Shop floor...epoxy coat

I am replacing my workshop floor. Currently there are very old tiles with lots of thick black glue on the bottom. Some of the tiles pick up the glue when scraped, other times the glue stays on the floor...I want to apply the garage epoxy coat to the floor once i've got all the tile up. My question is will the epoxy coat stick or do I need to remove the glue??? It is alot of work just pulling the tile....Hoping someone has tried it over glue with good results..
Thanks in advance.. -Joe
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You should take a look at the Rustoleum web site. I was looking at that product a week ago . There is probably an answer to your question there. There was a lot of.... if your floor has had this done to it or that on it etc, etc, this product is not recommended... yada yada yada. Made me decide to just redo the floor in tile again at work. I think the web site is something you should take a look at and decide for yourself. Good luck with it. Dang it must be the sometimers kicking in, it may have been on the product box where I read that. Well good luck anyways. Jim
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--

Keep in mind that epoxy is nothing more than fancy paint. Anything on the floor will show trough the epoxy. Myself? I would be looking to get that floor pristine before applying the epoxy. Greg
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On Sun, 13 May 2007 09:38:11 -0500, "Greg O"

I am not an expert, but I think that there is a little more to it. Most paint does not need to have 2 separate parts mixed and then used within a fixed time. Once mixed, epoxies are a fancy paint as long as they are usable. I've used the rustoleum & ucoatit products with wildly different results.
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wrote:

I put the rustoleum product on my garage floor at the last house. Prepped with degreaser, muriatic acid and power washer. Within 6 months it was peeling up where the tires rested and a few other places. Workshop application may be different.
New house, same prep, ucoatit product - much more expensive. 2 years later I have a quarter sized peel up where I must've missed the prep work.
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They do make a product that is resistant to acids,caustics and oils base products like gas, acytone ect. when I worked in the metal plating industry the plant used it on the floors, processing tanks and drip basons. The daw back is the cost, over $100/gal.
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you need to use heat to remove them both. it will loosen both of them up and make life easier. a good heat gun or better yet a propane torch will help out quite a bit.
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Joe:
Unfortunately, the epoxy is still just a paint, and like all paints, the end result is only as good as the preparation work. This means that the floor has to be cleaned THOROUGHLY. Removing that old black asphalt-base glue can be a problem, but most flooring supply stores can probably direct you to citrus-based products that do an amazingly good job of softening and removing old adhesives. It's still a lot of work, understand, but it's a lot better than splashing kerosene all around to soften the adhesive.
I've had good luck with the RustOleum products. Note that there are two different ones available, one for basements/worshops and one for garages. The one for garages is a bit more expensive, and the only apparent difference is that the garage product is resistant to sticking to hot tires and then being pulled off when the car is later moved. I've used both (in the areas that they're recommended for), and have had no problems thus far (3-4 years).
BruceT

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Hi Joe:
When I build my garage/workshop, I waited for the green concrete to cure for 4 weeks and etched it with muriatic acid. I applied a 2-part epoxy paint per instructions (except instructions said I only needed to wait 2 weeks for green concrete to cure). I used grey for the wood shop side and black and white checkerboard for the car repair side. Most of it has held up quite well, but there are a few places where the paint stuck to tires and pulled up. I don't believe any paint will really hold up forever. Ironically, I was thinking of removing the paint and putting down tiles.
Regards, John.
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update on the shop floor...
It seems the epoxy sticks to the glue on the floor with no problems. Well, one problem...The epoxy sticks fine to the glue, BUT the glue layer isn't as hard as the concrete or the epoxy. Dropping items on the floor is no problem, holds up fine, however pivioting on your feet will twist the epoxy right off the glue... I am still hoping that the floor will cure with time. It seems only the areas where the glue was unusually high are a problem.
Next time I would surely remove the glue first, even if it means sanding it down to the concrete...
Thanks again for all the help and your kind replies...
Joe
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RE: Subject
Try a 3500 PSI pressure washer to clean the concrete before laying down expensive epoxy.
Far better than trying to sand.
Lew
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