I'm trying to coat a piece of manufactured furniture with a clear coat.
I've tried spray polyurethane which goes on smooth, but doesn't hold to the
surface (peels off with fingernail). I then tried shellac, however, it
beads up. The only way to get a smooth surface is to spray enough to create
a thick puddle. The same beading happens if I try water based urethane
(Varethane). I'm wondering if anyone would have any idea what this piece of
furniture is covered with that would cause these three different clear coats
to behave the way they do.
P.S. This piece of furniture is made by Ameriwood, covered in wood print
veneer (the thin, non water proof kind). It's brand new.
On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 09:33:47 -0500, "Harry Muscle"
It's covered in melamine.
Scuff sand it with 00 wire wool, then give it a coat of melamine
primer (one of few things that will stick to it). ESP make the best
melamine primer to use (looks like water). International paints lso do
one that looks like thin white paint. Works OK, but it's very hard to
use and is horribly prone to runs. Take the panels off and work on
them horizontally, spray it, or use ESP.
Do whales have krillfiles ?
Exactly. Melamine is what countertops are usually made of, right? Melamine
is waterproof, this stuff let's water through if you let it sit for
15-30mins and it ends up swelling the fibbers underneath ruining the
furniture. My piece of furniture is covered by the same stuff that most
Walmart furniture would be covered with.
On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 10:47:46 -0500, "Harry Muscle"
nope. you're probably thinking of formica.
melamine is the stuff that cheap mall wart white bookcases are made
of. it comes in other colors and patterns, but the vast majority of it
it's not melamine or formica.
this sounds like some cheapo fake wood ya gots there. if I had such a
thing (just hypothetically, you hear- nuthin' like that in my house,
nosiree...) I'd pitch it real quick and hope nobody noticed. I fer
sure wouldn't be yappin' about it on the wreck....
Actually, we do have a technicality here. The final coating
on plastic laminate (Formica/Pionite/Wilsonart/Nevamar) is
melamine. The difference is there are many layers of kraft
paper impregnated in resins under the melamine making
plastic laminate pretty much bullet proof as a surface
Andy aside, there are lots of choices. I've seen some stuff that had what
appeared to be a polyethylene film applied. You could tear it with a
fingernail. Tough to tell which you might have.
The real answer is most laminates are used because nothing sticks to them -
so trying to do so is bound to be a big job. Your option of roughing the
surface and using special paint is enough to send me to the unfinished
furniture store downstairs.
I would try the brush on poly as stated above and if that dosn;t work maybe
some kind of epoxy. If that doesn't work I would give up and take up a new
hobby. Yep, you guessed it, WOODWORKING. :)
I don't know. I think you are making two assumptions. 1. The stuff he has
is waterproof. 2. It must be melamine.
What makes you believe so strongly its melamine. He describes the stuff as
NOT being waterproof in another post.
On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 11:23:44 -0500, "Harry Muscle"
Yes. Slightly "oily" sheen to it, if you catch the light right, but
otherwise it looks like you bought a tin of water and the stuff plain
evaporated away !
It does work though. I've got hard-working kitchen cabinets with an 8
year old paintjob over it and the look fine.
As to the paper / melamine argument. Melamine is a trademark for a
thermosetting plastic resin. It's sometimes moulded as a solid plastic
('50s picnic ware) but these day's you're more likely to see it as a
surface treatment over the printed paper used for covering cheap
chipboard. The quality, surface resistance and waterproofing of this
depends on how much resin is applied and how much pressure it's
applied under. Formica is similar stuff, but it's formed under
pressure from a number of paper laminates.
If this stuff isn't Melamine and it's plain paper, then obviously
there's no problem in over-coating it and the shellac can't possibly
be beading up.
Do whales have krillfiles ?
For protection I would have never tried SHELLAC. Shellac is not known for
its high protective value. Its on the low end for protection when comparing
all film finishes.
Didn't you ask this question already?
Instead of a spray on poly, I would try a brush on poly. It will build on
much thicker and may not peel off as you described. Give it adequate time
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