Shellac

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Rubbing shellac with steel wool produces a beautiful low-gloss finish that is flat and smooth. I did not know this until a couple of days ago when I came across some steel wool that had been left out.
The difference is drastic. The wood feels completely different; it's warm and extremely smoooth. I'm still marveling at how nicely it turns out.
Puckdropper
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On 4/26/2011 6:20 AM, Puckdropper wrote:

To leverage the effort and experience, use some paste wax as a lubricant for your steel wool. then polish with a dry cloth.
Also, rubbing with a brown paper bag (grocery) will make the shellac finish even smoother after you steel wool (0000) it.
(Which reminds me, I have a corner cabinet that needs to have the shine taken off of the shellac ... two years is long enough to wait. Thanks for the reminder! :) )
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Don't know why anyone would want to take the gloss of a polished bit of wood done with shellac. I think the ultimate bit of wood polishing is when you can get a glass like finish on wood with using only shellac and linseed. Glass like in look and touch.. Takes a long time, but worth it in the long run
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On 4/26/2011 8:18 AM, George W Frost wrote:

It's like whether you prefer blonde, redhead, brunette, skinny, or Rubenesque.
Mostly I prefer satin over gloss ... but glossy satin knickers on a pleasingly plump blonde, brunette, or redhead would work just fine too.
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'Pleasingly plump'... now there's a mouthful. I never cared for the 'bag-o-antlers' look either. (Except Twiggy)
The biggest problem with gloss, is that it tends to look like plastic. I once had the chance to see a Yamaha piano next to a B๖sendorfer grand behind the same stage under the same light. Both shiny/glossy but the Boes was just nicer. Nicer to touch, nicer to look at, nicer reflection. I couldn't figure it out. Then, after a half hour it struck me.... the Boesendorfer was just a miniscule amount less shiny and maybe 1/2% less black towards the ebony side of things...ever so subtle. I suddenly understood how an expert can tell a cubic zirconium from a real diamond—not what it is, but what it isn't and in the Boesendorfer's case, it wasn't as black.
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On 4/26/2011 12:34 PM, Robatoy wrote:

Or "just right" ... like Edie Brickell in 1994 at 2:28

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqL1BLzn3qc


Good description of color blindness, not what is is but what it isn't ... like the space between the notes in good music.
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Too close to FAT! I prefer petite women, so fat ain't happenin'. Built-like-a-brick-shithouse is OK. (Sports figure, like Sharapova, but she's too tall.)

Yeah, not bad at all.
Her best song of all time (and a good video)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDl3bdE3YQA&feature=related

"Philosophy, is the talk on a cereal box." "Religion, is a smile on a dog." ;)
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Or feel like plastic. Not the case with shellac, which can be rubbed out or French polished to a cold, glasslike sheen, in both appearance and feel.

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On Tue, 26 Apr 2011 07:15:21 -0500, Swingman wrote:

And thanks for reminding folks that waiting is a prerequisite before using any abrasive on shellac.
To which I will add that shellac will melt from heat. Don't go vigorously over and over the same area or all your finish will wind up on your abrasive in little balls. DAMHIKT.
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Overnight before using steel wool has worked fine for me. And never had it form little balls with steel wool.
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On Tue, 26 Apr 2011 15:14:30 -0400, J. Clarke wrote:

Probably harder to build the temperature as much because of the air between the strands. I can assure you it happens with 600 or 800 grit paper. I haven't tried the steel wool but will in the future.
For sandpaper I've had the best luck by waiting for a couple of weeks.
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Steel wool is also a metal, which would act as heat sink and keep things cool.

I just never got good results with sandpaper. It always seemed like it'd take more finish off than I wanted. (I didn't have any higher than 220 grit, though.)
Puckdropper
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"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message

I use a very fine wet and dry paper of anything up to 4000 for the final finish, then some brown kraft paper with linseed of coarse. I like the gloss finish it gives. I have tried steel wool and I think 000 is the finest I have been able to get
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says...

A midget has got little balls
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"Swingman" wrote in message
On 4/26/2011 6:20 AM, Puckdropper wrote:

To leverage the effort and experience, use some paste wax as a lubricant for your steel wool. then polish with a dry cloth.
Also, rubbing with a brown paper bag (grocery) will make the shellac finish even smoother after you steel wool (0000) it.
I learned that plain printer paper will work if you don't have a grocery bag handy. Making those printed plans work twice. How GREEN is that?
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My brown paper bag green effort has a slightly different use. When I buy alcohol at the liquor store, they put the bottle in a brown paper bag, (plastic bag elimination effort going on). Once home, I save the brown paper bags and then use them for cooking. With a section of brown paper bag lightly covered with non stick cooking spray, I cover a roast chicken for the first 3/4 of the cooking cycle. It prevents overcooking and keeps the chicken juicier. (Traditional Mom cooking tip)
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wrote in message

But, do you recycle your grog bottles ?
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The whole process can be very green :-] : Reduce: Print plans to scale Reuse: Use plans to polish project Recycle: Print new plans on the other side (this only works if the plans don't tear and you use only one side.)
I'll have to give the paper/bag trick a try.
Puckdropper
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"Swingman" wrote:

--------------------------------- SFWIW, bee's wax cut with turps and BLO works for me.
Keep a 1# coffee can with the above sealed and ready to go.
Use the coffee can as part of a double boiler to melt wax.
YMMV
Lew
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That doesn't work anymore, since the coffee "cans" are now made of cardboard ...
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