I understand shellac may be used as a sealer, barrier coat. Does that
work with latex paint? I've made some shelves that attach to the wall
and plan on painting gross white latex. Could I use shellac as a
primer/barrier for this purpose? The shelves are for indoors to place
some pictures on for the wife.
Appreciate the feedback,
I have never used shellac so can't give any advice from personal experience
but of what I hear, it should work just fine. The point of my post though
was to caution you about the paint. For a shelf that things are going to sit
on, latex paint is chancy. Some of it dries very hard and will cause no
problems but with lot of it, you will have things sticking to it. It won't
happen immediately but over time, they will stick. You would be much better
off with oil base paint.
For the face board, I used molding trim. It is probably a pine. The
top and bottom is lauan. I made these out of scraps. The wife was
pointing to these shelves in a mail order and they were $50 each plus
shipping. I thought that very excessive, so I thought I'd try my hand
at making some. It took a couple proto types (grin) but I got the
hang of it; compound cuts at 45 and 22 degrees. Dado'd to
insert the tops and bottoms to the facing. Even made some keyholes
with the router the son gave me for a birthday present.
Thanks for the guidance. Looks like another trip to HD for some
oil based gloss white,
You're better off with a water-based acrylic latex. It will dry
faster and the color will stay true (you mentioned indoor use). Also,
you'll want to topcoat with shellac. It is the best finish for
bookshelves, period. Even after a hundred years or so, it will not
gum up the way oil-based products do when they break down. When
shellac breaks down from age, it loses it's elasticity and crazes
(cracks, Keeter). The nice feature is that it is repairable... even a
hunnert years later. Nice, eh? Unless your books are covered in 80
grit, it's unlikely any book is ever going to damage a shellac finish.
You can rub out your shellac finish to whatever level of gloss you'd
like, from satin to something resembling a piano finish.
If you're looking for antique finish, milk paint is a neato (yes, I
said neato) choice. Just about all the mail-order wooddorking supply
houses will carry it.
The shelves are made of floor trim molding (likely pine) and the
tops and bottoms are of lauan. I made these from scraps in the
wood pile. It took a couple prototypes (grin) to figure out the
compound cuts, dadoing, and key holing.
The wife was pointing to these shelves in a mail order. I thought
$50 a piece plus shipping was a way too high and made them
Appreciate the comments about the latex paint. Hello Home
shelves constantly, the requirements of a super hard finish
will be greatly reduced. A tinted lacquer would work well
and look great over the luan, once you get it sanded smooth
and sealed with a vinyl sealer.
suggestion that has been repeated many times on the Wreck:
pick up a copy of Bob Flexner's "Understanding Wood
Finishing". page 134 will explain vinyl sealers, shellac,
primers etc. vinyl sealer is TOUGH. when you want good
adhesion and a durable lacquer surface, vinyl is the way to
as to the dewaxed shellac: a 2lb cut would work under some
finishes, but it isn't recommended by Bob under poly. some
guys use it anyway...
ps another good book is Finishes & Finishing Techniques by
Taunton Press. There is another favorite book by Wreckers
but I am momentarily at a loss to remember the author.
It'll come to me.
I usually recommend starting with Flexner for a good overview, then getting
all of Jewitt's books. Besides a variety of techniques, IMHO he includes more
practical information on the fine points than anybody else.
Regarding shellac under poly, I typically use a 1# cut of Homestead (Jewitt's
company) dewaxed shellac under water base poly. It avoids many potential
On Wed, 07 Jul 2004 12:26:51 -0400, " email@example.com"
Absolutely. In fact, Zinsser B-I-N is a four pound cut of white
pigmented shellac and is used in exactly this manner.
As for latex paint, if you use a vinyl latex, you will really need to
wait about two weeks before it is completely cured so you won't get bad
impressions from the weight of the pictures. Acrylic latex takes about the
same time but results in a slightly harder film. Pigmented lacquer would be
the best but is hard to find and handle.
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