Shelf carriers (metal, plastic or wooden?)

[Sonnich Jensen]

Hi all

I am about to finish this:

Now, the cupboards on the sides do not yet have shelfes in them. Basically I have 3 options, and I am not sure which to pick. I tried to kee p it in an old style, my hinges are the type where the door can be lifted o ff.

1. I could use those plastic corners, but plastic is not the style to use h ere

1. I could use those round (Ø5mm) carriers, which would make it possible to set the shelfes as I need.

2. I could use wooden carriers, but I guess that will someone limit the hei ghts in the future.

I'd go for 2 or 3, but please tell me your thoughts on this

WBR Sonnich

[BenignBodger]

I always seem to wind up using the drilled holes and pins but that is probably because I invested in the 32mm system jigs a long time ago and don't like to let anything go to waste. I'm afraid that you will be in for more work than necessary though since, with the cabinet assembled, drilling for routing or whatever you decide to do will be decidedly more difficult for lack of access. Typically the metal standards demand that you route a slot the full length of the inside vertical members and now you can't really get in to do that. Drilling is still possible although some jigs want full access to the sides too. So, a homemade jig or one of the plastic hand-held jobs might be the easiest way forward. Or maybe a fallback to the decidedly old-school sawtooth/batten supports?

[dadiOH]

My thoughts are metal. Specifically, Knape & Voight shelf pins, model #345 or 346. Like these...

They are inexpensive and strong, don't show when a shelf is on them but if you should go for them, don't buy them at the link above, way too expensive. They used to be (20+ years ago) $0.05 or .06 each. Today, certainly under $.15 each.

Holes for them can be drilled but if you have a lot it is easier and faster to use a plunge router with an appropriately sized template bushing to fit a purchased or self made jig.