The difference between copper, and other rigid piping/cpcv, and PEX is
in the amount of expansion and contraction it will allow with thermal
PEX has a much higher expansion coefficient and is thus more resistant
to bursting when frozen, although that is not an infinite ability ...
particularly with regard to the fitting points and connections.
Although there is much more room for error with regard to draining, the
weakest points would be at fittings and connections, which basically
means prudence dictates treating it as if it would be advisable to drain
if the thermal conditions indicate.
Leon, Bubba ... you mean you haven't yet figured out that we live in a
shallow thinking culture that prizes "looks" over increased
functionality and efficiency ... in a farking dark ATTIC?
AAMOF, unless someone spends a lot of their warm fuzzy navel gazing time
in the attic, who gives a flying fuck what a PEX homerun installation
looks like as long as it's effective, equally functional, less
expensive, and with more options for the convenience of zone plumbing,
at less cost?
That said, I've yet to see one of my plumbing contractors do the kind of
work with PEX I have seen decried here ... quality supervision and
_ethical contractors_ must obviously be in damned short supply
Water pipes in the ATTIC?? Now that's a bass ackwards way of doing
things - at least it would be up here. Water pipes in the attic WOULD
be likely to freeze. We don't heat our attics - at least not
On 4/13/2012 1:22 PM, email@example.com wrote:
It's standard procedure in almost all single story structures in the
Southern and Western states of the US, particularly in what is known as
"Hot Humid Climates", typically areas like the Gulf Coast where
basements are mostly out of the question due water tables, and 99.9% of
residential foundations are slab on grade.
That said, unvented attics, where all plumbing and HVAC duct work are
within the thermal envelope, is gaining some traction, although
relatively expensive and does have it's own drawbacks.
Besides, how else would plumbers, sheetrockers and painter's make it
through a harsh winter without some burst pipe work?? ;)
mass, and I can shut off any outlet separately to replace or service
the faucet or valve. All service valves have been replaced with ball
valves, so I don't run into seized shutoff valves.
So I guess the short answer is yes.
On 4/13/2012 8:21 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I asked , can you isolate a fixture should that fixture "or the pipe
leading to that fixture", develop a leak. Most any one can do what you
just described. I can turn off the water at the fixture or the manifold
to isolate that entire run. I basically have a supply manifold with 28
separate valves and a valve at the end of each of those runs.
BTY simply using a water softener helps greatly in preventing a valve
But my new home PEX plumbing came with all ball valves.
In my older home the valve that I shut off the most were the water
closet/toilet valves. They were difficult to turn after 5~10 years but
about 8 years ago we installed a water softener and the next time I
turned off any of the supply valves any where in the house they turned
like they were brand new. This did not happen immediately but
eventually all of the ones that I worked on operated freely.
Hard water causes all sorts of problems. Early on, I'd have figured
your wife would have had trouble with dishes and clothes washing and
gotten you to do something about it.
Of course, those things may well be part of your duties and you just
put off the hard/soft water fix for a number of years. :)
I had that KW water eat a few of my copper pipes after 20 years.
wrote in message
Some places the water is naturally soft - and others the hard water
is hard but not agressive. Then there's the water I grew up with -
hard as a stone and as agressive as battery acid.
28? What do you have, a bloody motel???? There is a total of 16 water
outlets in my whole house. If I shut off the soft water I affect 5 of
them. If I shut off the hot water I affect 5. If I shut off all soft
water I affect 8. I can live with any one of those situations untill
I can repair whatever has gone wrong, assuming it is more than just
repairing a faucet, which I can isolate totally.
I use a water softener, but I don't soften drinking water, toylet
flush, or outside faucet.
Once a valve is seized by the hard water up here, NOTHING is going to
get it moving again - and even soft water shutoff valves can (and do)
go wonky after a while - unless they are ball valves.
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