I am making a few cribbage boards. I am drawing the "skunk" lines on the
board My first try I did it with a fine point sharpie. I let the sharpie
dry for about an hour. When I put on the first coat of spray poly (aerosol
can, oil based ) the sharpie bled all over the place. Which surprised me
because if the kids touch anything with those markers it is there forever.
I sanded it all off and tried to draw the lines after a coat of poly but the
marker didn't work well.
Do I need to go buy a paint marker or use a different method with the poly.
Please don't say paint with a fine brush.
When I make my cribbage boards, I use a fine tip paint pen for the lines.
You can get the pens at the hobby stores. I've used the pens on many types
of wood. I've never had any runs when finishing with poly.
In that case, you drill at opposing end holes first, then put in a pin
or three to keep the template in place whilst drilling the rest of
The template holes 1/4" are bigger than the holes 1/8" that are drilled in
the board. The template is made to be used with a self centering bit
setup. Went by Rockler and they don't have a pin that would do the trick.
I might try double stick tape on the next one I do.
I have never tested it but just had the thought of using a Shellac
coat first since Shellac is sort of the universial undercoat for
seperation. However, not sure if the alcohol will also act as a
solvent on the sharpie ink and cause the same problem.
Another possibility is to try water based poly.
Pigma marker pens might work.
I don't know how oil based finish would work with them. My wife has used
them with good result in watercolours so if they work on wood then maybe
water based finish will serve..
I discovered them when they first came out and used them all the time
for awhile. They may have changed the tip material since but I found
that the tips soon wore away on any paper that had a real tooth to it.
On oak, I can see a problem with jitter if you don't fill the pores and
get a smooth surface first.
If I had to do this for more than a few boards, I'd probably buy/make
the silk-screen equipment I've back-burnered for too long, relearn a few
forgotten skills and do a photo silk screen.
Have access to a woodburning setup, Larry?
I made toys for the grandkids and ran into the same problem... The Danish Oil I
was using lifted and faded my lines..
I ended up scoring the lines with a ruler and awl and then my wife used her
pyrography (what they call an expensive woodburning setup) pen to burn the lines
disk). Make up a pattern you like and mirror image it with any
graphics program. Tape it to the wood, printed side down. Rub the
back of the page with the transfer tip and the ink transfers to the
wood. I've used shellac, poly, boiled linseed oil and lacquer over it
and haven't had one bleed yet. If you have a good enough graphics
program you can even print your drilling pattern at the same time.
A few tips:
Practice practice practice... it takes time to get it right
Drafting vellum seems to work best at giving up the ink to the wood
A little pressure helps
The smoother the wood the better the transfer (I go to 320 grit)
You can transfer darn near anything you can get on paper mirror imaged
(lines, drill pattern, text, signature, etc)
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