I have the results from the lighting configuration test some of us discussed some 6 months ago. Maybe my procedure is more interesting to see than the results.
I got a camera this week too (finally). My photo's have nothing on Swingman's...but maybe that helps make them interesting? : )
At least I'm providing proof that I followed through with what I said I planned to do. You can view some of the details on my web site if you want. All in all, it was sort of fun--it was just too darn hot this week to be completely fun!
It will be easier too. It became obvious they are designed to be hung in basically one way--and not in a temporary-adhoc way. It took me several hours to identify a decent way to hang them. One piece of 3/8" nylon rope, with a knot at each end, held them up, so I used two because all of the edges were sharp. 3 staples on top, for each piece of rope, kept them from slipping. I'm glad "the experiment" is over!
I'm looking forward to doing the proper installation. I picked up a conduit bender for $5 at an auction. It's almost time to start practicing those 15 degree bends at the ends (yes, I know they sell "adapters" which eliminate the need).
Eggshell paint is semi-reflective, but it doesn't glare like semi and full gloss paints do. It will make quite a difference, guaranteed.
I still think 11 fixtures will be too bright for you. (Have your wife take a picture once you get it done. I want to see if you're wearing shades in there. ;)
I think I have enough lumens to go with the flat paint. One can always repent. One can always remove a bulb too, or take down a fixture. Admittedly, at this point the four fixtures near the garage door are superfluous, but they make the lighting "uniform" (some y'all place great stock in that).
The experiment revealed that 2 lights placed at 90" centers do not make lighting suitable for "seeing the line" with a power tool. You'd prefer lights at 43" centers, instead of 90", over your table saw. I suspect I'll be using exactly 2 fixtures more than half of the time.
At this point I have the 11 (T8) light fixtures designed in the pattern over the 20' x 24' space (lights running the long way:
++ __ __
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++ __ __
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the hole occuring where the attic is, and the fixtures marked ++ being my primary ones over my bench, and they are on 1 switch and the other 9 are on another switch. The 3 fixtures above the "gap" above will be right above the table saw. The EMT runs very nicely in the configuration above without a single bend and there is some symmetry. Larry, What would you change? Seriously. : )
BTW, having all of the lights on Would be too much for me if I was just passing the time. If I was running any major power tool, it might be good. I appreciate that this might be averaged out some.
Gosh, you'd think we hadn't done the experiment! : ) I do see your point though so I'm still listening. You might recall that I do already have two other lights from a separate circuit--and along with the ones marked ** above, those 4 DO provide a Nice medium level lighting in the most used area. So which fixtures are expendable? I marked in the other existing lights (on the separate circuit) in the diagram below.
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__ __ | __
++ __ | __
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I apologize to anyone who thinks I'm sounding like a broken record. I'm still willing to accept constructive criticism. At least now I know what to expect from 2 or 3 of my bulbs, etc.
BTW, did you all get the word about Menards having 11% off everything this week until August 7th (via rebate). I'm going to pick up most of my wire today and some of the other things I need for this project. I only bought 3 fixtures so far, but they came from Home Depot who hasn't offered a sale on them yet--and I don't know exactly how many I'll need. ; )
FWIW I don't think you can see the difference between using flat and gloss white paint. I just lit up my new 3 car garage with lamps and painted most of the garage gloss white.
BUT the gloss paint tends to be easier to wipe down with out stains soaking in or hand prints being left behind. And dust tends to not be quite as attracted to a gloss surface. Flat paints tend to be dirt magnets.
Big downside on gloss is that it will show _every_ imperfection in the finish work. If your finish _is_ perfect then it can be a way of bragging. From a lighting viewpoint flat is better--the actual reflectance is about the same but it gives a more even light. Gloss vs flat doesn't always work the way you think.
And ease of cleaning is really more a function of the paint chemistry than gloss or flat.
I thought you had the two over the bench and the two originals on the same switch. That could work.
From medium to blinding in the flip of a switch, eh? Right now, gray sheetrock and flat mud are sucking in the light, not reflecting it.
I'd definitely use eggshell paint. Without it, you'll need those extra fixtures. Well, I don't use the perimeter of my shop much. Some is relegated to wood storage, the other to shelving, so I guess I can't complain too much about too much light in your shop unless I'm feelin' frisky.
I use comfortable overhead lighting plus high-intensity spot lighting for critical areas. The overhead lighting is always on while I'm in the shop, and the spots are on while I'm at the tools, such as the mortiser/grinder/drillpress bench or the bandsaw. But that's only when I've created a deer trail to actually get to the tool mentioned. One Christmas present to myself is clearing out all the crap in the shop so I can get back to work. I'm _finally_ back in de-clutter mode.
MEDIUM? Hmm, what does the doctor say about your cataracts? A buddy of mine said he just got one of his done last week and is scheduled to get the other eye done this week. He's 58, like me, and said it's nice to see the world as white, instead of a milky yellow that he had been seeing.
Well, not really. Since light is additive, when you add those other fixtures, bouncing light fills in everywhere. I'm thinking that when you turn it all on, you're going to be surprised at how bright the collective light is.
We're stuck with Blowes and Homey's Despot on the Left Coast.
If you're going to have 13 fixtures in there burning at the same time, you'd best not forget extra pairs of shades and SPF-50 lotion for all the guest suntanners you're likely to attract. ;)
Leon, if you have sunlight in your shop at any time, you'll see why gloss is such a bummer. Glare galore! Eggshell is the happy medium. It's _very_ washable, doesn't collect dust, and doesn't glare.
THAT was what I learned on my trip to Mennards this morning. I didn't realize how clueless I was about paint. I learned there are 4 kinds:
flat, eggshell, satin and semigloss.
I learned that these are progressively easier to wipe dirt off of, and that, in the same order, they progressively reveal your drywall deficiencies, if you happen to have any.
Based on our conversation, I thought satin was a good choice. What are your opinions?
Paint newbe: Why is that? What do you think of "satin"? Supposed to be easier to keep clean?
Without it, you'll need those extra
My light on the bottom left (of my diagram) is just so it's not dark right where you walk in, because it's adjacent to the attic where there can't be a light. You are correct (below) when you point out that I'm not sure what will happen when the lights are combined and the light bounces off of the walls.
One of the most time consuming parts of my shop project is moving stuff around (too). Frustrating when there aren't alot of good spots to move the stuff around to. Presently all of our "stuff" in the garage is in the middle--which makes it easy to work on walls, but harder to work on lights... Sometime's I block off the deer trails with chairs and such (hint, hint), but my wife walks through anyway!
Actually Bill I did use Satin, I typically think in terms of flat and gloss. I for got about all the in betweens.
Satin is what I have, it has just a touch of shine to it and I am happy with it.
One other thing to keep in mind. You wan to use a PREMIUM paint, especially if you are using a latex paint. Not all latex paints are created equally and that goes for premium brands also. As Swingman pointed out to me a few days ago the cheaper quality latex paints remain sticky. The better latex paints dry harder. So if you lean any boards against the wall you don't want them to stick. DAMHIKT.
The brand of paint Mennards was leaning me towards was "Dutch Boy". How does that rate? It was regularly $25/gal on sale for $20/gal. I just bought some primer today.
Bill
BTW, You are quite correct: If I lean boards against the wall, I don't want them to stick!
Absolutely, I am very happy with the sheen and color, and that it is still clean in a 7 month old shop that has been creating lots of saw dust. Actually the color by a normal persons standards is white, the color chip says Swedish Coffee?
I have never used Dutch Boy however let me restate, Dutch Boy, Glidden, Sherwin Williams, Prat & Lambert are all top brand paints. Don't buy their cheapest paint. Regardless of whet "top" brand you buy, you want their best paint. Keep in mind that while you may think that you may never need the "higher" quality paint for your shop or garage the higher quality paints tend to go on the wall much better and with much less effort from you aside from the performance you get out of the paint years down the road.
Price never indicates the quality for sure but I once painted a kitchen for a customer, including the inside of her pantry. I had installed new cabinet door and drawer fronts and drawers and painted the insides of the cabinets too. I used "1" gallon of Pratt & Lambert Alkaid based oil enamel and coverage was great. IIRC 10 years ago I paid about $50 per gallon, but it only took one gallon and one coat.
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