Shapton Stones, Yep, they work

Woodcraft has 15% off on Shapton stones, at least the ones that Shapton recommends for woodworking tools (1000, 5000, and 8000 grits). I've been using scary-sharp but not getting that have the "hair fall off your arm in front of the blade" sharpness that I've been looking for. Since I've been trying more and more to avoid the use of sandpaper on my projects and to use planes and scrapers as exclusively as possible (I'm finding that this is actually faster than sanding since one doesn't have to progress through grits), I used this as the justification to pull the trigger and try the Shapton system. Got the stones home and unpacked and pulled out the blade on the #4 smoothing plane. In the process of going through the first stone, my hand slipped and the blade contacted my left thumb -- yep, even at the first grit, it's sharper than anything I've gotten thus far. [Dang, that smarts! -- it took quite a deep cut into the corner of the thumb]

After getting the bleeding under control and some bandaids on it (I figured that the ER would just butterfly it shut anyway and charge me $200 for the privilege of sitting around bleeding for 2 or 3 hours), I progressed through the 5000 and 8000 grit stones. While the finished sharpening doesn't have the mirror surface I was getting with scary-sharp, I can honestly say that I have never had scary-sharp provide the sharpness that this does -- the blade shaved forearm hair with no effort and was producing very fine shavings in ash that was quite course-grained.

With a couple of process changes for safety, I'm a happy camper. I'll have to get the lapping system in the future. Even for the price, I'm still in it for less than I would have paid for a Tormek or other electric system.

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough +--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Reply to
Mark & Juanita
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Follows me exact experience as well. The Shapton's were a wonderful investment going from scary sharp.

For flattening I use a DMT course duo-sharp stone.

Alan

Who was hoping the 120 would have been on sale too!

Reply to
arw01

Two things. Small cuts, superglue!

Second, you will find the stones will actually be cheaper in the long run and give you better results. As for the mirror finish, the 5000 and 8000 grit stones should provide a very nice mirror finish with a little practice.

Dave

PS, I have family in Tucson, they love it there!

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Reply to
TeamCasa

I'm glad to hear you're happy with them, but my own validation was when Frank Klausz made the switch. I've been using them for about two years, had to flatten them twice, and they really do work like they're supposed to.

What are you going to use for a flattener, by the way? I bought the cast iron with the grit particles. Works good.

Reply to
else24

Thanks for the review. I might have to pick up a set now.

Reply to
bf

I've not used these stones before but they have a good reputation. One think I always do when I want that final super sharp blade is a quick run over a leather strop charged up with green oxide (Lee Valley sells it). That gives me a mirror finish! Cheers, cc

Reply to
James "Cubby" Culbertson

IME, those are good grits, for waterstones, but for coarser stuff I'd (had I to do it over again), for better wear resistance, consider the diamond stones.

In addition, for narrow blades (smaller chisels, etc.) I think you're better off with the diamond stones (or oilstones) because using the waterstones to sharpen them will cause uneven wear of the stones.

For the 8000x stone (at least my Norton) it doesn't seem to be much of a problem.

Lapping a waterstone is a miserable experience. Not because it's difficult, but because you are removing a lot of material from an expensive stone.

Now, enjoy the cramps in your forearms as you treat all the blades in your shop. :)

er

Reply to
Enoch Root

I read somewhere (can't remember where now) that japanese blades don't do well with coarse diamond stones. Apparently the harder steel tends to get microfractures from the coarse diamonds, and this then leads them to chip more easily later on.

I wish I could remember where I saw this.

Chris

Reply to
Chris Friesen

I've used them in school.

They're super stones, but I'm moving to them as I wear out my Norton stones. Shapton stones proved their worth to me in actual use, they're worth the price.

Barry

Reply to
B A R R Y

James "Cubby" Culbertson wrote: >I've not used these stones before but they have a good reputation. >One >think I always do when I want that final super sharp blade is a >quick run over a leather strop charged up with green oxide (Lee Valley >sells >it). That gives me a mirror finish! >Cheers, >cc

I am curious about this. Fine polishing pastes on a leather strop will polish the blade, no doubt. But would not the softness of the leather actually cause the blade edge to ever-so-slightly bed down into the leather from your hand pressure and cause the edge to round up some? Seems like it would leave the edge *less* sharp, but highly polished so it would still cut well. I just can't see how this would *not* happen. I guess the only real way to find out is to pre, and post examine the edge under a microscope to see what actually happens. Anyone out there do this already?

Reply to
Sailaway

The amount of "rounding" is miniscule - it's a polishing operation. It could be considered a microscopic micro-bevel.

There's a reason that the old time barbers always had their strop handy. It works.

R
Reply to
RicodJour

I'm curious; can any sharpening experts in this group compare the Shapton stones to the Spyderco Ceramics?

The Spyderco stones come in Medium (600), Fine (1800) and Ultra Fine (2000). But, I'm not sure which of the grit numbering formats is used by Spyderco. (or Shapton)

I got the Spydercos from Highland Hardware a number of years ago. I've used them dry and clean them periodically with scouring cleanser.

One web site,

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the Spyderco stones for $140.00 for a set of the three grits, 2 x 8 inch.

Jack

8000 grits). I've been | using scary-sharp but not getting that have the "hair fall off your arm in | front of the blade" sharpness that I've been looking for. Since I've been | trying more and more to avoid the use of sandpaper on my projects and to | use planes and scrapers as exclusively as possible (I'm finding that this | is actually faster than sanding since one doesn't have to progress through | grits), I used this as the justification to pull the trigger and try the | Shapton system. Got the stones home and unpacked and pulled out the blade | on the #4 smoothing plane. In the process of going through the first | stone, my hand slipped and the blade contacted my left thumb -- yep, even | at the first grit, it's sharper than anything I've gotten thus far. [Dang, | that smarts! -- it took quite a deep cut into the corner of the thumb] | | After getting the bleeding under control and some bandaids on it (I | figured that the ER would just butterfly it shut anyway and charge me $200 | for the privilege of sitting around bleeding for 2 or 3 hours), I | progressed through the 5000 and 8000 grit stones. While the finished | sharpening doesn't have the mirror surface I was getting with scary-sharp, | I can honestly say that I have never had scary-sharp provide the sharpness | that this does -- the blade shaved forearm hair with no effort and was | producing very fine shavings in ash that was quite course-grained. | | With a couple of process changes for safety, I'm a happy camper. I'll | have to get the lapping system in the future. Even for the price, I'm | still in it for less than I would have paid for a Tormek or other electric | system. | | | | | | +------------------------------------------------------

--------------------------+ | | If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough | |

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Reply to
John Flatley

I plan to get the cast iron and grits as well. That wasn't on sale, Woodcraft didn't have it in stock, so I'll probably order it direct from Shapton. The cast iron base probably would have saved my thumb because it would have been more stable than the plastic base.

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough +--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Reply to
Mark & Juanita

I've got some DMT stones, so for the course cuts, I'll still be using those to prep for the Shaptons.

... snip

:-)

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough +--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Reply to
Mark & Juanita

It's a matter of only 2-3 swipes with very light pressure. I can't see it rounding the blade unless I were to use excessive pressure and make several passes. It worked for the barbers of old so I figure it works for my blades too! Cheers, cc

Reply to
James "Cubby" Culbertson

. Anyone out there do

Take a long look at

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has done microscopic examinations and pictures of many plane blades after various types of sharpening operations and subsequent use. He has a full section and pictures on the effects of using leather strops with and without honing compound.

You can learn a lot from his work.

Regards.

Tom

Reply to
Tom Banes

Great link!

Thanks!

Reply to
B A R R Y

Difference being that they didn't put the abrasive glop on the leather. Not needed.

Reply to
CW

One thought that came to mind, has anybody tried using a flat glass plate for the final honing? Or, a flat glass plate with the honing compound on the plate?

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough +--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Reply to
Mark & Juanita

Seems like that'd be more sure to give it a hook if you weren't right on the money.

er

Reply to
Enoch Root

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