sealing a new shop entry door


I am installing a new entry door for my shop and the floor is a concrete slab. What sort of caulk or sealing method would be best to seal between the door sill and the concrete floor?
One fellow I met mentioned some sort of asphalt based sealant. Another person mentioned putting a 1/2 inch of pressure treated lumber between the door sill and the concrete floor.
I am not concerned about clearances for carpeting as this is for a workshop.
I just don't want air or water seeping in under the sill.
What is the best way to deal with something like this?
Thanks
Pierce
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If you check the installation instructions for your new door it should recemmend silicone and the best method to apply it. Just remember to lift the door over the caulk and drop it in place rather than slide it in across the caulk or you'll have a big mess. --dave

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my standard procedure is to place a large bead of caulk under the threshold when i put the door in (after i've made sure it fits, etc. since it is protected from UV, what caulk you use isn't that important, though the best is probably something like NP1 or Sikaflex or something like that.
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On Sun, 28 May 2006 06:08:11 GMT, "R. Pierce Butler"

there is a pan specifically designed for this.looks like a { Z }. silicone under the pan for keeping the critters out. any blowing rain that gets under the door has no place to go but back out.
skeez
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R. Pierce Butler wrote: > I am installing a new entry door for my shop and the floor is a concrete > slab. What sort of caulk or sealing method would be best to seal between the > door sill and the concrete floor?
<snip>
If you want it to last, I'd avoid silicone, asphalt or any of the other household caulks.
My choice would be a marine adhesive such as SikaFlex 291 or even a polysulfide caulk like BoatLife.
Find a local marine chandlery such as West Marine.
Even Home Depot will have 3M 5200.
Lew
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On Sun, 28 May 2006 06:08:11 GMT, "R. Pierce Butler"

I always use PL Polyurethane, on recommendation from a fella who has been doing doors and windows for 20+ years. Seems to work fine.
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