Screw recommendation for fastening table top? (Stage props again)

Another kindergarten question for you.
If I use "figure-eights" to attach my 3/4" pine table tops, what gage/type of screw would you recommend? Keep in mind that unlike your kitchen table at home, these will be frequently moved, most likely lifted by the edges of the tabletops.
And ...
Is there any reason I couldn't use small garden-variety angle brackets for this task instead of the figure-eights? Assuming I have a large enough hole in the part that attaches to the tabletops to allow play, that is. That way at least one of the two screws won't have any stress in the direction that would tend to pull it out. Plus I wouldn't need to drill out recesses for the figure-eights.
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On 4/10/2013 10:35 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:

...
As said before, glue and then just nail 'em on and be done.
They won't come off even if all you did was a few 8d finish nails w/o the glue.
This was supposed to be 'quick 'n dirty' and you didn't have time to spend... :)
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On 4/10/2013 10:35 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:

IIRC I use #8 screws and predrill pilot holes.

You can use any thing that will allow movement.
You can also run a couple of wooden supports between the side aprons, in the direction across the top grain, and drill some slotted holes in the supports. Pocket hole the supports into he aprons. Attach the tops through the slotted holes.
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I just came across this thread, and it looks like most of the decisions are made, but I thought I would add my 2 cents worth.
At one time I worked for a good sized theatrical lighting company, we also made a significany ampunt of props and scenery. Although I was mainly involved in the technical and electronic side of things I had quite a bit of exposure to the rest of the operation.
As far as props that did not to be extremely realistic for some reason went, the word was cheap, fast, quick and dirty and cover things up with paint (add bondo if needed). We used a lot of 3/4 pine or fir (wheatever was cheapest) 2X4's, plywood, and tons of grabber screws. Things like the angle brackets you mention were used if needed. Quality furniture or cabinet hardware - never. The things that can be done with bondo, paint, and a little creativity would amaze you, at least from a distance.
If you think you may be called on to do this kind of thing in the future try to look at the way props are made at a professional company and use those thechniques.
WayneJ
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Greg Guarino wrote:

#8. Wood screws ___________

No reason. You could also use blocks of wood. ______________

Nor if you just screwed/nailed the top to the aprons. Best way IMO.
--

dadiOH
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On 4/10/2013 2:53 PM, dadiOH wrote:

In addition to having a little fun helping out some friends, I'm trying to learn a few things in the process. I think these tables will be used for future productions as well. I'd rather they don't split at some point down the road. Now I have absolutely no experience with such things; I can only go by what I've heard and the advice I get here. These will be narrow tables made of cheap 1x6 pine and the "finishing" will likely be about the same quality as the wood. I'd be perfectly happy to assemble the entire works with screws, but if damage due to seasonal changes is likely, I'm willing to go the extra, well, /few yards/ to prevent it.
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On 4/10/2013 2:18 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:

Well, that's quite a lot different objective than that given in your initial posting.... :)
But, w/ lumber-yard wunbasix/four pine, it'll be soft enough that the what movement there is will be very unlikely to cause a split. What's more likely to happen is you'll work and work to get a nice smooth top w/ a solid table surface and after the first few nights w/ the hot stage lights on them at once you'll notice the 1x6 instead of being ~5-1/2" wide is closer to 5-3/8" and you've got some nice little cracks beginning to show between them. And, unless you've tied 'em down pretty well, they'll also probably start to bow a little. That's 'cuz while dried, that lumber isn't dried to furniture-grade quality levels and it's going to shrink some in all likelihood.
Do as you wish but realistically for the purpose even as rudimentary as you're making them, they're being over-built. Now the self-education on woodworking technique is a whole different issue--as the last sentence starts off, on that front do as much as you want and use as many different ideas as you want.
Just don't ask the question of how to build props... :)
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Greg Guarino wrote:

It's not.

--

dadiOH
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"Mike Marlow"wrote:

--------------------------------------------------------------- Yep, tough to keep their posts separated; however, just to be safe, the universal answer is "Get a bigger hammer".
Lew
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On 4/11/2013 1:48 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:

Hmmm. Bill and I sound (read) alike? Must be an exemplary fellow. I may have to read more of his stuff.
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Greg Guarino wrote:

LOL. Careful Greg, they may treat as as examplary and "...make us sit on the bench marked Group W" ; )
Bill
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On 4/11/2013 6:47 PM, Bill wrote:

Kiiiiiiiiiiiiiddd! ...
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