Screw lubricant

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I have often used barsoap as a screw lube but found it a pain to keep the surface sufficiently wet to be easy to use. Whe the soap is too dry it doesn't adhere to the screw, falling off before it is of any use. I once read that a toilet flange wax ring was useful and happened to find one at the bottom of one of my 'necessary' boxes. In the past I have used petroleum jelly and had it migrate to the surface, wrecking the ability to hold a finish. I am wondering if the wax ring will do the same. What is your experience with screw lubricants?
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B.
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You've got it. High-quality facial soaps contain glycerin in good proportion, just as your K-Y does. They're also pH neutralized, of course. Pretty friendly stuff that lubes great and evaporates slowly. Might be enough time to evaporate that soft iron would rust, but plated mild steel or even harder stuff with phosphate coatings should endure.
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C & E wrote: | I have often used barsoap as a screw lube but found it a pain to | keep the surface sufficiently wet to be easy to use. Whe the soap | is too dry it doesn't adhere to the screw, falling off before it is | of any use. I once read that a toilet flange wax ring was useful | and happened to find one at the bottom of one of my 'necessary' | boxes. In the past I have used petroleum jelly and had it migrate | to the surface, wrecking the ability to hold a finish. I am | wondering if the wax ring will do the same. What is your | experience with screw lubricants?
The wax rings are bees' wax and should work well as screw lube.
I heard somewhere that soap promotes rusting of screws - but haven't seen any first-hand evidence.
-- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto
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(alkalinity)..(as in base vs acid) When in contact with even a mild base, raw iron will most certainly corrode.
r----> who lines up screws and sprays TopKote all over them. That issupposd to be silicon-free and it sure makes the scews go into oak without a squeek.
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"Robatoy" told us

It is also safer for the tongue than licking the screws.
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So obviously they need a tongue shaped applicator kinda like the finger- shaped caulk spreader. ;-)
Puckdropper
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Morris Dovey wrote:
> The wax rings are bees' wax and should work well as screw lube.
Mix bees wax with turps 1:1, in a 1 lb coffee can, then keep covered.
> I heard somewhere that soap promotes rusting of screws - but haven't > seen any first-hand evidence.
Carbon steel screws suck, IMHO.
The cost of fasteners in a project is so small as a percentage of total cost that I don't worry about it. I just use S/S.
Lew
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Soap is hygroscopic, I think it is. It draws water. If you combine steel screws and oak you have a real mess given a bit of time.
Paste floor wax and beeswax both work well. I've heard that the new toilet rings are not beeswax, but it's still generally, and cheaply, available from any beekeeper (around here, it's two or three bucks a pound, which should last pretty close to a lifetime as a screw lubricant source. That's uncleaned. Woodcraft carries the cleaned stuff in half pound blocks for 13 bucks).
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Soap may be somewhat hygroscopic, but better examples would be methanol and ethanol. They absorb water from the air readily. Perhaps the property you're thinking of is hydrophilic or hydrophobic. Soap molecules have a hydrophilic (water-preferring) end and a hydrophobic (oil/fat-preferring) end, which is why it works as it does by cleaning a variety of substances.
todd
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Try the experiment - screw some steel screws into an oak board in a line across the grain. Come back in a year and the soaped one might not have rusted, but it will have significantly more iron-stain spreading outwards.
As one of my major uses of screws is for steel screws holding oak together at a moisture-expansion joint (under tabletops etc.) I don't want this happening. So I use candlewax, or sometimes beeswax.
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Someone may have a better way than me. I use a vernier to find the screw minor thread diameter and drill the pilot hole accordingly. When the pilot hole is not properly sized I wet the screw threads before using the barsoap. So far by using a quality drill and c'sink bit matched to the right screw size I was able to manage in maple, oak and cherry without lubrication. When screwing in hard spots and knots I for sure use bardsoap as lubrication after wetting the threads of the screw. I have learned by accident that a drop of carpenter's glue also facilitate the driving of the screws in soft wood like eastern white pine.

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Sun, Feb 11, 2007, 1:33am (EST+5) snipped-for-privacy@nb.sympatico.ca
minor thread diameter and drill the pilot hole accordingly. <snip>
I just hold bits up to the screw to compare until I find a suitable size.
JOAT Only those who have the patience to do simple things perfectly will acquire the skill to do difficult things easily. - Johann Von Schiller
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J T wrote:

store checkout lane. ;-)
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rascal less in the world.
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I use bar soap quite successfully. I lick the screw before I rub it on the bar of soap and that holds it to the screw quite well. After while a little moisture builds up on the soap and this helps too. I restore classic mahogany boats and hence have inserted 1000's of screws this way.. I find the soap from hotel/motels works real good!
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soap...:)
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--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 02:40:07 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@milmac.com (Doug Miller) wrote:
[...snip...]

Don's a mystery. He seems to mean well... but insists on messing up the thread. I've given up hope.
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On Sat, 10 Feb 2007 21:08:24 -0800, Jim Weisgram

He got it right in a few threads a few weeks ago, but for some reason
END PART 1
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(Doug Miller)

He also does not know to not use soap as a screw lubricant. Might as well spray a little salt water on the screw before inserting it.
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