anyone worked much with scrapers? I've seen David Marks using them for
everything, and I'd like to get some feedback from 'real' people on their
use. Was thinking of picking one up this week when I trek over to
One reason I'd like to play with them is I've been having huge tearouts
with my planes recently. Probably because I dont have them tuned well, I
Marks uses the Stanley #80 almost as much as the hand scraper. I haven't
gotten a good feel for the method to his scraping madness, though... I.e.
when he's chosing the #80 over the hand scraper and vice versa.
Scraping and hand planing is something I need to read up on. I have a hand
scraper and burnisher, but that's it. The more I watch Marks, the more I
realize I should broaden my horizons. :-)
I have a good size blister on my right thumb right now from scraping this
I highly recommend the Veritas Variable Burnisher (Lee Valley). Until I got
mine, I never really got a good edge.
If you like the Veritas Variable Burnisher you're going to love their
card scraper holder thing-a-majig. Turn a knob to flex the card scaper
as much as you want and no more thumb cramps or blisters.
Cotton gardening gloves work well to keep scrapers from warming
your fingers too much, charlie.
======================================================== The Titanic. The Hindenburg. + http://www.diversify.com
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I have the card scraper holder also and find it mostl a nuisance.. As
for the 'hot thumb' problem take a couple of the flexible refrig
magnets you get w advertising on them and attach to back. Greatly
extends time b4 heat gets to you.
On Wed, 7 Jan 2004 20:43:14 -0500, "Montyhp" <montyhp at yahoo.com>
I have a Stanley #80, which I use for crotch/strange grain. I do have a set
of hand scrapers and have filed and burnished, I even tried putting a 45
degree edge on the straight....I also would love to know how he (Marks) gets
such large shavings while hand scraping. I did find that after freehand
sharpening on the 1" belt sander at 45 deg. I was able to increase the size
of the shavings, but not substantially....:-(
It may depend on the wood. With straight-grained poplar I can make
shavings the length of the board with a block plane--not something
I can do on most other woods. I haven't tried to make long shaving
with a scraper.
It is also possible to tune a scraper. WIth a big 15 degree hook
you can remove wood fast or with a fine 5 degree burr you can just
take the bumps and sags off a finished surface.
I found that out quite by accident when I was trying to remove
all the paint from a cabinet and discovered that I was just
leveling the surface on the topcoat the way the scraper was
Scrapers are awesome. I find I can scrape with or against the grain, just
don't try to scrape across the grain.
I rarely use sand paper as I find that the finish left by a scraper, or well
tuned smoothing plane cannot be improved upon.
The whole trick is in the burr. It takes very little pressure with a
burnisher to create a good burr. Preparing the scraper before drawing the
burr is important. You need to make sure that the face and edge of the
scraper are very smooth and square before drawing the burr. A very small
burr creates very nice shavings.
I've got a number of scrapers. Card scrapers, a Stanley #80 & LN #112.
The card scrapers I use for small touch up jobs, the Stanley for
scraping off glue from panels and such like and the LN instead of a
ROS/sandpaper and clouds of choking dust.
Sandpaper's for peasants ;)
I'd get your planes tuned-up first though - it will mean less work in
the long run. Whilst you're at the hardware shop, buy some silicon
carbide paper and a piece of glass & Scary Sharp them.
On Wed, 07 Jan 2004 03:09:35 +0000, Andy Dingley wrote:
Next time I'll try your carbolic/scrubbing brush method. Thinking
about it, sandpaper's too good for them ;)
The hassles of being an evil land-owning toff ....
Frank (aka "the Lord")
Before you go, familiarize yourself with scraper sharpening methods.
Make sure you have everything you need, pick up what you don't.
A dull scraper will turn off a new user in seconds.
As Barry says, learn to sharpen them. I've just got to the point that
I can properly get a good burr. It only takes about two minutes to
all 8 edges on a flat scraper now. At first I was trying too hard to
get it sharp but now that I have learned the subtle technique it's
agree that if you don't persist and reach this level where you can
them quick, you will give up.
I have them located all over my shop. I'm constantly honing them. The
veritas burnisher works very nicely. Once you have them, you will try to
figure out how you got along without them. Make sure to get the goose neck
shaped one also. It works very nice smoothing coves.
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