Maybe a silly question, but here goes.
What is the equivalent grit in sandpaper terms for a scraper? After sanding to 220 I sometimes will find a spot that needs scraping. Do I need to sand over the scraped area with 150 and work down to 220 again or just 220? or not at all?
Thanks.
220 I sometimes will find a spot that needs scraping. Do I need to sand over the scraped area with 150 and work down to 220 again or just 220? or not at all?
there isn't really an equivalency like that.
the scraper surface will vary in smoothness by what method was used to sharpen it, how thick the scraper blade is, how hard and open pore the wood is, what angle it is used at, how much pressure and plenty of other factors.
if you're going to be mixing scraping with sanding, try a spot with the scraper before you get going with the sanding- it'll let you know where the scraper fits in in your process. lots of folks prefer to do all of the edge work- sawing, chiseling, planing and scraping- before sandpaper touches the wood, for fear that grit from the sandpaper will dull the edge tools.
On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 03:37:38 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, "stoutman" quickly quoth:
220 I sometimes will find a spot that needs scraping. Do I need to sand over the scraped area with 150 and work down to 220 again or just 220? or not at all?I find that a scraper gives me a better, smoother finish than 320 grit paper on hardwoods. On softwoods, I'll scrape, rub a coat of Waterlox in, let it dry for several hours, and scrape again. The result is about the same as the hardwood; Call it 400+. It can be, but isn't necessarily, more of a burnishing.
===================================================================== -=Everything in Moderation,=- NoteSHADES(tm) glare guards -=including moderation.=-
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.