Sawzalls and recoil

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On Sat, 4 Oct 2008 18:16:12 -0700, "Michael Koblic"

Skill no longer supports. I paid $2 for it and plan to convert it to a rattle can shaker that someone here posted about. I have since seen two of these NIB at a surplus outlet tagged on sale for $18 each, no thanks. Gerry :-)} London, Canada
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What is the recall? If it is something minor, I would just use it until it dies.
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If I understood it correctly, under certain circumstances (?) the spindle slips and the blade hits the guard. However, this is quite an old recall and the guy must have been using the saw for years looking at the state of it. I saw no blood stains mixed with all that dust so I guess without any accidents.
The big question is how using it with a steel-cutting blade would change the spindle loading conditions. I fear quite a bit...
I gather DeWalt would still do the recall work for free but the cost of getting it to the service center probably exceeds the cost of a brand new saw.
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From what I'm reading it doesn't sound like either the Dewalt or the other unit are ones that I would want to buy. Last year I bought a brand new super sawsall. It was a Milwaukee top of the line job. It sounds like I did the right thing by getting the original one and not a copy. So far I like it and it is very powerful, cuts great. I like powerful.
Hawke
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wrote:

Don't be too sure - if you aren't in a rush you can get ground shipping fairly cheap. Though you have to go straight to the USPS or UPS service counter to get the best rates, most of the "Pack and Ship" stores charge extra.
It's the "Overnight Air by 10 AM Guaranteed" where they rape you.

The real Milwaukees are nice, but you need 120V in the vicinity. I have one, and they are the gold standard - but not nearly as handy as the 18V battery units for attics and parking lots.
And watch the model numbers and the amp ratings - even Milwaukee is making multiple grades of tools to meet price point pressures. A cheap model stripped of features and a smaller motor to match the competition, and the Better models with storage cases, quick-change blades and cords, anti-vibe and bigger motors if you are willing to pay for it.
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On Sat, 4 Oct 2008 18:16:12 -0700, "Michael Koblic"

So send it in!! You might get a new one out of it!
I always buy broken Craftsman tools at yard sales...the ones I know I can trade in for a new one
Gunner
"Obama, raises taxes and kills babies. Sarah Palin - raises babies and kills taxes." Pyotr Flipivich
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Gunner Asch wrote:

Don't you know better than to buy tools made for Democrats?
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I have used a DeWalt and a Ryobi. The Ryobi was better at shaking a can of paint. If one has more than 1 complaint of having a lot of vibration/shake/or recoil I'd say take a pass on it, regardless of brand.

http://yabe.algebra.com/~ichudov/misc/ebay/DeWALT-DW307-Reciprocating-Saw/ebayhist.html
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in

Iggy, anyone who doesn't know the source of and solution to recip recoil hasn't spent much time with them.
Keep the sole plate tight to the work, and it won't happen, unless you tip-end smack the work or a fastener.
(have a Super Sawzall; had a Riobi and a Bosch. Got the Sawzall because of the stroke and longevity of the tool, not it's operating characteristics.)
LLoyd
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On 2008-10-03, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh <lloydspinsidemindspring.com> wrote:

Lloyd, I had the same feeling about recoil.
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"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote: (clip) Keep the sole plate tight to the work, and it won't happen, unless you

If the sole plate is allowed to have zero pressure or less against the work, the saw will DANCE. Saws which have an internal counter weight run more smoothly under all circumstances. My first really good saber-saw was a Bosch, and I was really impressed at how much easier it was to follow a line. You don't have to lean on the saw to keep it steady.
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That's what I said, Leo! You don't have to PUSH, just keep the shoe down snug, and the saw will track like it should. It cuts on the pull. Only inertia of the ram and drag in the cut will make it push away from the work.
I've personally never had trouble with any recip keeping it steady in the cut -- not even on the dirt-cheap battery run ones.
LLoyd
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"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote: That's what I said, Leo! You don't have to PUSH, just keep the shoe

So, why did I post what I did? Quoting from your post, "Keep the sole plate tight to the work, and it won't happen," I felt that it was not completely clear that the rotating counter weight makes this a lot easier. It won't matter much on a Saws-all, doing demolition, but when you're doing delicate work with a saber saw, a light touch makes it easier to control the cut.
I don't think we disagree, except slightly on emphasis :-)
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On Oct 3, 10:53am, Ignoramus26581 <ignoramus26...@NOSPAM. 26581.invalid> wrote:

You already own the saw. Why would you ask what others think about its recoil when all you have to do is plug it in and find out for yourself? Why the hell would you care?
John Martin
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http://yabe.algebra.com/~ichudov/misc/ebay/DeWALT-DW307-Reciprocating-Saw/ebayhist.html
Ship them both two me, and I'll isse them to my work trucks. In a few years I'll let you know which one held up better.
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