Saw top lubricant

Page 1 of 2  
Anyone have a reasonably priced supplier for TopCote or a equal or better product to lubricate saw top and surrounding table (plastic laminate) surface. Thanks in advance kenneth
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

For half the price you can get a can of Johnson's Wax that will last 10 years or more. I use it on the plastic laminate tablesaw extension too. Usually I hand buff, sometimes use an electric auto buffer. No rust at all, but having A/C in the shop helps.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Right now Woodworkers Hardware has it for $8.72 for a 10.75 oz can.
Empire products, the original makers of Top Coat makes an equally effective product.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I just use any automotive paste wax one can will last years
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Sac Dave wrote:

Some automotive waxes contain silicone, which can cause finishing problems if it gets on your wood. Whether or not enough will transfer from the saw to the wood to cause problems may depend on how much is applied and how well it's buffed off.
Chris
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 08:55:52 -0600, Chris Friesen

with finishing.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Which one do you use and where do you get it? I am looking here, http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/boelube.php
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 15:44:03 -0600, "Leon"

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Sac Dave wrote:

Not a good idea, unless you're absolutely sure it doesn't contain silicone. If you're going to use wax, Johnson's or Butcher's is a better bet. Personally I use Boeshield, which one can get at Sears.
--
--
--John
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
J. Clarke wrote:

I love it! Glad you have a sense of humor.
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 10:14:17 -0500, J. Clarke wrote:

I usually cut my wood BEFORE I sand it - why would I worry about a miniscule transfer of silicone to unsanded wood?
BTW, I like Trewax better than Johnsons - haven't tried Butchers.
After a couple of years of monthly use (approx.) I now wax once or twice a year. In an unheated shop in a wet winter climate I never see rust. Well, there was the time I set a piece of green wood on the tablesaw overnight :-(.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Larry Blanchard wrote:

Do you spray NC lacquer or water based finishes? You would if you did.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Because silicone can cause fisheyes in the finish.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Thu, 12 Feb 2009 08:19:46 -0500, Maxwell Lol wrote:

Somehow I think you missed my point. Any silicone transferred to the wood will get sanded off before finishing.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Larry Blanchard wrote:

You'd be surprised...
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Does that mean it would be an "eye opener?" Get it - fish eye . . . eye opener????
Lord forgive me and bless the Pygmies in New Guinea . . . amen. :-)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Jimmy Mac wrote:

    Go4d
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Thu, 12 Feb 2009 13:04:02 -0500, B A R R Y wrote:

I haven't been yet :-).
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Thu, 12 Feb 2009 18:19:06 -0600, Larry Blanchard

Wait 'till you use some porous wood, like walnut.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Larry Blanchard wrote:

Don't let experience get in the way of the facts...
BTW, my old shop was in the basement that got water in it when it rained. Wax was horrible as a lubricant and lasted about no time before rust reared it's ugly head. I stumbled over a spray lube from 3M that worked almost exactly like Top Coat, and never once got any rust and wood slid like there was ZERO friction, like it was on an air cushion. They apparently no longer make the stuff so I bought some Top Coat. It goes on the same and slides just as good as the 3M stuff. How well it stops rust or lasts I don't know because I no longer have a water problem and rust is almost a non-issue, and I've only used top coat a few months, one coat still is working fine, little usage though.
I paid $9.99 for a spray can of Top Coat at a local wood machinery dealer. After using wax and Top Coat, Top Coat wins hands down.
--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://Motzarella.org
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.