Saw Stop

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Is anyone using the Saw Stop Table Saw? If so what do you think about the quality of construction and performance.
Thanks DG
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snipped-for-privacy@bellsouth.net wrote:

Forgive him... he knows not what he asks.
DG: search this group with Google and you will find over 8,000 (that's right, 8,000) related hits.
All kinds of opinions on the saw, and all things related.
I am hoping your question is not irreversable.
The last volcano that erupted over this machine covered the machine lightly, but hit hard on people too stupid to use power tools, civil rights violations, big business versus the little guy, smoking and eating choices, and a lot of other subjects that turned ugly and venemous.
I am sure you asked out of innocence....
Forgive him group... he knows not what he asks.
Robert
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

I'm gettin' the popcorn.
This reminds me of the time I asked the RV newsgroup if I had enough tow vehicle for a particular trailer.
brian
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*banging head on desk*
NOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!111!!!
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LOL!
"let's You and Him Fight!!"
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brianlanning wrote:

and Will and Lon probably went to town over it. You are right popcorn time
Chris
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com writes:

He probably saw the reference in Time magazine.
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Never heard of the Saw Stop. Is it an accessory you add to your saw? What does it do? I'd be interested if I can add safety for 20 bucks or so.
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snipped-for-privacy@bellsouth.net wrote:

I'm waiting to hear reviews on their upcoming contractor saw. The site says it's coming out in late 2006, which is right about....now.
First project will be a non-frangible mailbox.
gd&r
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snipped-for-privacy@bellsouth.net wrote:

I'll take pity and answer your question real quick.
It's an expensive saw. But it's good quality. Yes it works. Sometimes it misfires. It destroys the blade and needs a new $80 cartridge when it fires. It can't cut pressure treated wood, green wood, or hotdogs without misfiring. There's a switch that turns it off to cut these things that you can forget to turn back on, or forget to turn off in the first place. The man who invented it is an ass-hat. He tried to get the other saw companies to license his technology for a ridiculous fee. They all turned him down. Then he try to get it's use mandated by law creating the ass-hat status. That failed, so he started the sawstop company you see today.
What would be really funny now is if you asked whether left tilt or right tilt was better.
brian
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220 or 110 ?
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brianlanning wrote:

It is more expensive than a non-protected saw .. .. my employer just took delivery on one .. $4,000 including 5 extra cartridges, long fence rails, side table, 3ph 460v motor, shipping & tax.
We did 2 demonstrations for the guys who would be using it and for the Plant Manager to see what he bought. In each case, the cartridge, of course was destroyed .. .. but NOT the blade. We were able to tap the teeth loose from the cartridge in both cases with no apparent damage to them. In the event that effort failed, only 3 teeth would have had to have been replaced .. NOT the whole blade. The replacement cartridges are $59 .. NOT $80. The saw WILL cut green and/or pressure-treated wood WITHOUT triggering .. the saw will stop and flash a code on it's LED's letting you know IF it detects a condition where it MAY trigger falsely, giving yo the option of stopping that cut or by-passing the safety temporarily.
The saw WILL, in fact cut a hot dog neatly in two as I found out in one of my demonstrations .. .. I placed the hot dog in a v-notch cut into a 2"X4" and proceeded to pass it thru the blade. Everyone was astonished when the hot dog was cut in two. A few seconds later, I realized that I was not touching the hot dog, and it occurred to all of us that the hot dog, by itself didn't have the capacity to draw the charge off of the blade fast enough to trip the safety. I reset everything, placed my finger on the end of the hot dog, and tried it again. As predicted, everything went as expected. The test was even more impressive than the factory video in one respect. I did the test with a blade ground with ATB. Examination of the hot dog after the test revealed that only one tooth of the blade came in contact with the hot dog, and that was a very shallow "nick" which would have easily been covered with a band-aid.
I retired from that company last week and on my way out, both the Plant Manager and the Maintenance Director thanked me personally for having made them aware of this wonderful device. They said that one visit to the Emergency Room for stitches would have cost more than the saw, the cost of a re-attachment of a severed finger would have been at least 10X that amount, not to mention the pain & suffering of the amputee and the time lost from work, etc.
I firmly believe in the SawStop, and will have one in my own shop, hopefully before too long.
As to the point about the by-pass switch .. once activated in by-pass mode, the saw stays in by-pass UNTIL it is shut down in any way and when it is turned back on, the full-protect mode is automatically enabled.
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<<<__ Bob __>>> wrote:

When I spoke with the reps at the wood show they said that the whole blade would need to be replaced. Due to the stress of the sudden stop there may be hidden damage to the teeth that could result in them flying off if the blade was re-used.
> The replacement cartridges

Dado cartridges are more.
Chris
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That was a question in my mind - any heard of carbide teeth getting launched due to the sudden stop?

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Thanks for the reply. <<<__ Bob __>>> wrote:

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<<<__ Bob __>>> wrote:

Thanks for the post. This is probably the best and clearest info I've seen on the sawstop so far.
brian
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    --What he said.. I've had one in my shop for over a year now; finally triggered the cartridge the other day, when I did something stupid. I had built a metal fixture that I knew would get nicked on the first cut and I could have turned off the sensor but it just never crossed my mind. That's the clue: sometimes I forget stuff and it's great that this wonderful tool "remembers" for me. Sure, I triggered the cartridge and I *did* destroy the blade (it tore 3 carbide teeth off of the blade; nothing left to reattach them), but it was a lesson I was pleased to learn the easy way, instead of the hard way. A good wake-up call.     --And the saw is incredibly well detailed, in terms of the little things that really matter when added together, like the magnetic latch on the internal door on the dust chute and the added hinge that lets the whole door be removed for easier blade and cartridge changing. I like that there's a bracket to hold the T-square, too. Many other little details, but none come to mind at the moment. Well worth the investment. I'm waiting 'til they've got something I can retrofit to other tools in my shop..
--
"Steamboat Ed" Haas : There's never a tachikoma
Hacking the Trailing Edge! : around when I need one!
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steamer wrote:

$4000 for a table saw?!?!?! Holy cow, wish I had your budget...
Hell, I lost the end of a finger on my $500 saw. Surgery with insurance was nothing, few co-pays on visits, 9 fingers to go, I still think I'd come out ahead;+}
-Jim
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jtpr wrote:

That price was for the industrial 3-phase version. iirc, the normal 220 version is about $3000.
brian
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brianlanning wrote:

Ooookaaaay...
$3000 for a table saw?!?!?! Holy cow, wish I had your budget...
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