sanding inside bandsaw boxes

Hi all, I recently began making bandsaw boxes. Sanding the inside surfaces has been a challenge to say the least. The only thing I can think of to help would be an oscillating spindle sander. Since this is the only thing I can think of I thought I should pose this question to you all and see what alternatives are available. Thanx in advance, John O'Toole
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(John O'Toole) wrote:

I don't know about alternatives ... but the oscillating spindle sander is a good way to do that. I've been *very* happy with my Delta BOSS.
-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
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could you sand before assembly?
KY
--

http://users.adelphia.net/~kyhighland


"John O'Toole" < snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com> wrote in message
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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (John O'Toole) wrote in

I just finished two boxes, one straight from a book, the other sorta borrowed from the book's plans. (Book is out in the shop right now, or I would tell you the name of it.)
The first I sanded the inside as best as I could, a lot of it I did by hand. I also used the belt on my 1 x 30" bench top (toy) Delta sander.
The second box, I paid a lot of attention to the blade set up, tension was checked, than rechecked, cool blocks set to perfection. I cleaned my newish Timberwolf blade, than sprayed it with Pam. I cut the box, determined to use a proper feed speed.
The first one, the drawers sit low. I think I need to stick some felt in for shims. I am not happy with it. The second box, well, it was still a rougher cut than I would like, but the drawers fit better. They slide in nicely.
And you know what? With the drawers in place, you can't see the inside of either box!
I did one thing different from what the book suggests. I used double sticky tape (carpet tape) on the back piece. You can change the order of the cuts, and you will not have to make the long re-saw cut to remove the back. Make sense? I thought not. Sorry. Just think about how you could improve your box if you could have the back milled to thickness, instead of sawed off, than glued back on later.
I am not happy with either box, really, but after seeing some similar examples at the Indy woodworking show a few weeks ago, I guess I am not doing so bad. I wonder if standards have to be lowered a little for bandsaw boxes.
Good luck with them!
-Dan V.
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John O'Toole wrote:

John, I have built several bandsaw boxes, and highly recommend an oscillating spindle sander. I use a Grizzley floor model that has ten spindles ranging from 1/4" to 3"...this allows you sand details as well as the larger, sweeping curves. I also use the small sanding sticks that use narrow sanding belts (go to www.woodcraft.com and search for 123283) that will get into small places well; I keep several of each size with different grits.
As far as sanding before reassembly goes, this can be done, but it can also make the joint between the backs (box and drawers) and drawer fronts more visible. I generally do not sand these mating surfaces; rather, I make the best cut I can and then sand manually after reassembly.
The best approach to getting a good finish without lots of sanding is to get the best cut possible (I know this sounds basic!). I use a 1/8" or 3/16" 8-10 tpi Timberwolf blade tensioned using the "flutter" method they recommend. I take my time, not rushing the cuts. I have used a variety of woods (poplar, cherry, zebrawood, and others) and this has proven to be the best blade for the job. You can sww some of my boxes (and other work) at http://walt.thenovingers.com .
Good luck with the boxes...they are the cheapest form of therapy I can imagine!
Walt
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