I recently began making bandsaw boxes. Sanding the inside surfaces has
been a challenge to say the least. The only thing I can think of to
help would be an oscillating spindle sander. Since this is the only
thing I can think of I thought I should pose this question to you all
and see what alternatives are available.
Thanx in advance,
email@example.com (John O'Toole) wrote in
I just finished two boxes, one straight from a book, the other sorta
borrowed from the book's plans. (Book is out in the shop right now, or I
would tell you the name of it.)
The first I sanded the inside as best as I could, a lot of it I did by
hand. I also used the belt on my 1 x 30" bench top (toy) Delta sander.
The second box, I paid a lot of attention to the blade set up, tension was
checked, than rechecked, cool blocks set to perfection. I cleaned my
newish Timberwolf blade, than sprayed it with Pam. I cut the box,
determined to use a proper feed speed.
The first one, the drawers sit low. I think I need to stick some felt in
for shims. I am not happy with it. The second box, well, it was still a
rougher cut than I would like, but the drawers fit better. They slide in
And you know what? With the drawers in place, you can't see the inside of
I did one thing different from what the book suggests. I used double
sticky tape (carpet tape) on the back piece. You can change the order of
the cuts, and you will not have to make the long re-saw cut to remove the
back. Make sense? I thought not. Sorry. Just think about how you could
improve your box if you could have the back milled to thickness, instead of
sawed off, than glued back on later.
I am not happy with either box, really, but after seeing some similar
examples at the Indy woodworking show a few weeks ago, I guess I am not
doing so bad. I wonder if standards have to be lowered a little for
Good luck with them!
I have built several bandsaw boxes, and highly recommend an oscillating
spindle sander. I use a Grizzley floor model that has ten spindles ranging
from 1/4" to 3"...this allows you sand details as well as the larger,
sweeping curves. I also use the small sanding sticks that use narrow
sanding belts (go to www.woodcraft.com and search for 123283) that will get
into small places well; I keep several of each size with different grits.
As far as sanding before reassembly goes, this can be done, but it can also
make the joint between the backs (box and drawers) and drawer fronts more
visible. I generally do not sand these mating surfaces; rather, I make the
best cut I can and then sand manually after reassembly.
The best approach to getting a good finish without lots of sanding is to get
the best cut possible (I know this sounds basic!). I use a 1/8" or 3/16"
8-10 tpi Timberwolf blade tensioned using the "flutter" method they
recommend. I take my time, not rushing the cuts. I have used a variety of
woods (poplar, cherry, zebrawood, and others) and this has proven to be the
best blade for the job. You can sww some of my boxes (and other work) at
Good luck with the boxes...they are the cheapest form of therapy I can
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