I am planning on gluing up some picture frames with West epoxy with wood
How well does the squeeze out sand?
I would just test it, but mixing up a small batch is a bit of a chore; so I
am hoping someone knows from experience. Thanks
I've used West (and many others) for many years - not in woodworking,
but in hobby rocketry. The main issue is letting the resin fully
polymerize (harden). West shouldn't give you any problem, as it's a
good resin (getting the ratios wrong can cause problems with many
epoxies - but most will -- eventually -- polymerize - might just take
months, tho). West's pumps pretty much remove that problem, however.
But, at that point, it'll sand quite nicely. I would suggest doing
this outside with appropriate respitory (sp?) protection - as epoxies
have a habit of 'sensitizing' one - to the point of not even being
able to walk into a room where they are being used (as one friend
became - but he worked regularly with it for years). Be cautious and
smart - protect your health.
> I am planning on gluing up some picture frames with West epoxy with wood
> dust filler.
> How well does the squeeze out sand?
As long as you understand that using wood dust filler adds no strength
to the epoxy, no problem.
Wear disposable gloves (Good time for a trip to Harbor Freight) when
working with epoxy and make sure your mix ratios are correct.
Allow at least a week to cure, especially this time of year. Heat lamps
will shorten the cure time.
Once cured, sanding is no big deal.
All depends on the filler. I use microballoons if I want to sand it. I
guess "wood dust" might make it sandable too, but this is obviously
variable. Unfilled is harder to sand than you'd want, silica fillers
make it effectively impossible.
Once cured, it sands fine. That assumes you can get at it easily. If
your frame pieces are convoluted, that could be a problem and I'd try
to avoid squeeze out and if not possible remove it before it sets.
Just an FYI...
Cyanoacrylate works nicely for frames. It might be easier and is
definitely less messy. Of course, it needs smooth, well mated
surfaces and the way to achieve that is chalk...rub chalk over both
mating surfaces so it fills pores and low areas, blow off excess,
apply CA, hold or clamp pieces til set. If the frame is going to be
finished "natural" keep chalk maybe 1/16" away from the joint edge
that will be visible.
I've put together 100s of frames using the above - frames from 16X20
to 30x40 with 5" moldings - and none ever failed.
It tends to clog sand paper rather fast. You'll use of lot of paper.
There comes a point where the epoxy is no longer sticky but is still fairly
soft. At this point it is easy enough to cut and peel using sharp tools.
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