Sanding before Priming

[Searcher7]

I was curious as to how much sanding is usually necessary before priming.

Is it normal to sand old or even relatively new paint completely off before= priming, or just enough so that the primer adheres?

I ask because I'm restoring some old artwork on a plywood cabinet, and if I= don't sand it off completely it would be easier to restore the art by mask= ing and going over it with each of the three or four colors originally used= rather than to have to start from scratch.

The artwork was originally done in lacquer paint, however the paint I'm usi= ng to restore it is latex.

Thanks.

Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.

[Ed Pawlowski]

priming, or just enough so that the primer adheres?

don't sand it off completely it would be easier to restore the art by masking and going over it with each of the three or four colors originally used rather than to have to start from scratch.

to restore it is latex.

You want to take off enough to get a smooth coat of primer. It does not have to be bare wood.

Paining over lacquer with latex is just repainting, not restoration.

[Larry Jaques]

priming, or just enough so that the primer adheres?

Just enough to give it tooth for the primer to adhere, unless there is paint flaking off. I'd sand all the flaky paint down and off the cabinet. Sanding is usually done to flatten the piece for painting. The glossier the paint, the flatter it has to be without showing the blemishes.

don't sand it off completely it would be easier to restore the art by masking and going over it with each of the three or four colors originally used rather than to have to start from scratch.

to restore it is latex.

Lacquer is much, much thinner than latex, so you'll have lines at the edges. Those can be sanded flatter (with a dual-action sander, or DA) once the latex hardens completely. Then you can put a clear covercoat over it all for a better look. I doubt you'll be able to match the colors and glosses, so plan on painting the entire panel once you start. Paint usually won't stick well to vinyl, either, so I'd avoid that.

-- Happiness lies in the joy of achievement and the thrill of creative effort. -- Franklin D. Roosevelt

[-MIKE-]

If whatever you're applying on top will stick to what's beneath it, you don't need to sand down to wood. With many woods, whatever is already on the surface is better to paint over than bare wood, anyway.

Smooth is relative with paint, as well. I can't tell you how many times I've sanded a drywall patch "perfectly smooth" only to see the borders after painting. If there's any texture or artwork on top, it often hides those imperfections. But a single color, smooth topcoat will often show them.

The solution might be building up a couple layers of primer with flat sanding in between coats. Good auto-body guys are maters of this.

[Searcher7]

I'm not sure what you mean by that. As long as the surface is smooth the th= ree different color matched latex paints I have, which are actually primer = and paint in one, will be used on the entire side which was actually origin= ally stenciled and sprayed. The base/background color, the second and then = third color, followed lastly by the black outlines.

Ok. I'm not 100 sure what you mean by "unfeathered edges". Is that were two= different colors meet? I will obviously be us> Lacquer is much, much thinner than latex, so you'll have lines at the

Ok. There is no vinyl involved in this project.

The pa> If whatever you're applying on top will stick to what's beneath it, you >=20

In a question involving a different but similar project, *priming* over a c= lean, lightly sanded surface that still has paint is no problem, correct?

I don't want to lose the original artwork completely, since it will be my g= uide when re-painting.

But as far as sanding *after* I finish re-painting. Camn this be done witho= ut having to worry about bleed over?

Thanks a lot.

Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.

[Ed Pawlowski]

different color matched latex paints I have, which are actually primer and paint in one, will be used on the entire side which was actually originally stenciled and sprayed. The base/background color, the second and then third color, followed lastly by the black outlines.

When you "restore" something, you bring it back to original condition. If you have a '55 Chevy and replace the chrome on the bumper with silver paint, it is just painted, not restored. Replacing lacquer with latex is not a restoration.

[-MIKE-]

clean, lightly sanded surface that still has paint is no problem, correct?

Not that I know of. Priming over a surface that has different, contracting colors can help keep the top color even.

guide when re-painting.

having to worry about bleed over?

I don't know what "bleed over" means, and I'm certainly no paint expert. But I would never sand the final, finish coat of paint. Maybe some do.

[Searcher7]

The original paint was lacquer and therefore somewhat transparent. If you sand it too much the color underneath the color you are sanding stars to come through. It doesn't chip, so there are no unfeathered edges to worry about.

When one color contaminates an adjoining color.

Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.

[Searcher7]

three different color matched latex paints I have, which are actually prim= er and paint in one, will be used on the entire side which was actually ori= ginally stenciled and sprayed. The base/background color, the second and th= en third color, followed lastly by the black outlines.

I still don't see the parallel. I'll be using latex and a clear gloss over that for protection. Many other have done this in restoring their cabinets and the resulting artwork looks factory new.

Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.

[Father Haskell]

re priming, or just enough so that the primer adheres?

I don't sand it off completely it would be easier to restore the art by ma= sking and going over it with each of the three or four colors originally us= ed rather than to have to start from scratch.

sing to restore it is latex.

Only two things will stick reliably to cured lacquer -- lacquer or shellac. Clean, scuff with 220 until no longer glossy. Seal with clear dewaxed shellac (Seal Coat), scuff when dry, and paint with whatever you like. The shellac will also seal the masking tape edges to create sharper lines and prevent paint from seeping under.

[Searcher7]

a clean, lightly sanded surface that still has paint is no problem, correc= t?

I used a foam roller. One coat with horizontal strokes, the second with ve= rtical strokes and the third with horizontal strokes again, and I can still= couldn't completely get rid of the "parquet-like" pattern. So I hope when = it is painted over it will look ok.

my guide when re-painting.

ithout having to worry about bleed over?

I'll be force to use brushes at certain points and assume I'll have to deal= with some streaks as a result, so I was thinking a light sanding might hel= p. (Someone even mentioned using #000 steel wool to "feather" any slight ra= ises).

Thanks.

Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.