I know to lightly sand between coats of poly. Do you also lightly sand after the final coat - or is the final coat the final finsh?
Thanks
I know to lightly sand between coats of poly. Do you also lightly sand after the final coat - or is the final coat the final finsh?
Thanks
I use 0000 steel wool with Johnson's paste wax to give the wood a sensuous feel.
Walt C
Don't have to. May not want to. Some people can't abide a shine, so they degloss the surface. Some people, like turners, like the shine, so they buff it.
That sounds border-line kinky, Walt.. you don't have red velvet tool holders, do you? *lmao*
mac
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Yep--and latte too. The steel wool/wax treatment is real inspirational, and it smells sooooo fine.
Bob
On Mon, 21 Feb 2005 10:34:30 -0700, Bob Schmall wrote (in article ):
So let me get this straight..
I have always used 0000 steel wool _followed_ with some Johnson wax. Are you using the wool _with_ the wax?
BTW, the wife always giggles when I show her my can of Johnson wax 8^)
-Bruce
There are two reasons for for sanding between coats. One is to improve adhesion. The other is to level the surface as you build up the film.
Some poly's have a recoat period where sanding is not required. How much you want to level the surface depends entirely on what you want to finish with.
And, that's exactly what you didn't say. IOW, what look do you want to end with? For a low gloss finish without filled grain, I sand after the seal to remove wood nibs, then just use a hand scraper between coats to cut any imperfections. The final coat gives about a 1200 grit sheen and isn't touched.
Course, if you want to end up with something else, then you do something else. For instance, to get filled grain and a 20000+ grit "piano" finish, I'd sand to level between most coats, then rub out the final coat.
So, if what you end up with looks like what you want, leave it alone. If too shiny, then sand it down. However, other noted steel wool. Fine on oil based poly; not good on water base, even after dried. Pieces of iron will remain, and unless fully cured (30 days) some water will remain, or you may want to recoat in the future.
GerryG
Bob
>
I don't use water based poly, but have been using "synthetic" steel wool, which I really like.. Washable/reusable, not rust, no particles of steel left, etc...
mac
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