Man, this is a tough crowd.
Anyways, thanks everyone for your opinions. I am going to explore it, along
with Delta and a couple of others. SWMBO is getting real concerned with my
old saw, so maybe she will let me spring for a "safer" saw.
Ywah, it can be. Lots of us like to yank yank chains. ;~)
Please do stick around as we can use some input from the tool guys with
knowledge of the products.
And now that I know that you are very familiar with the Unisaw, I can whole
heartedly recommend you continue to consider it. There should be no
If you would consider the little less traditional TS's take a look at the
Laguna's also. They are in the PM66 and Saw Stop price range. Still the
SawStop should prevent serious injury.
I will stick around, thanks Leon.
I am not familiar with Laguna here in Canada, I will have to go see them at
the next show.
I searched them on line and I like what I see so far.
They ship to Coguitlam BC at the end of each month for customer pick up.
That isn't a stretch to go and pick one up if I order it.
9" Rockwell 6201B (made in Guelph Ontario, circa 1975). Good saw. Came with
two extensions and round fence rails . The rails had the ability to be
placed so that the extensions were all on one side or one on each side of
the blade. Putting them all the way to the right gives you a 48" rip
setting. It was the only saw up here that did that other then the Unisaw
Problem is it only uses round rails, so I can't put a Beismeyer on it.
It is powered by a 220VAC 1.5 HP Marathon motor off of a AB paddle starter.
The guts of the saw are identical to the 10" contractor saws. The cabinet,
handwheels and top were different.
Sounds like you have at least 90% of a new saw already in place.
Time to spend some creative time on the thinking chair.
Couple of questions?
What is req'd to convert to accept a 10" blade?
Would you consider a UniFence?
If so, what would it take to fit a UniFence extrusion on the front of
I have chewed on that one for years. I think it may be as simple as mounting
the front rail using curved spaces that would fit in the groove that runs
along the front of the table top. As for a 10" blade, the is not enough
upwards clearance before it would hit the front or the back of the insert
hole. I thought about making a different insert, but again, same issue.
the 9: has been great for the past 10 years, before that I had a 34-450C
Unisaw with the 3 HP 220VAC (before they started adding all the other
numbers to the models). I sold it when we moved as I didn't think I would
need it anymore................silly silly silly............
My workshop would easily handle the saw as it is 12' x 20'. this way I can
rip or cross cut a full 4'x8' piece without any effort.
No, it will be a new say. I just need to sell it to the boss
Nope, probably while I was gone. I don't know if I have ever seen one. I am
thinking hard, but that rally hurts. I am going to go look through my old
A lot of US saws were never sold in Canada as we had our own foundry in
Guelph. Our models were usually the same.
I am doing a search on the web for some pictures to jog my memory.
I love the old tools. It is nice to rebuild one and show it off later.
Now I remember it. I just saw a picture at
My ex-boss had one. I liked the looks of it, I just never liked the idea of
holding my wood at an angle when it was cutting.
I love the old machines
Enlighten me. I'm not familiar with that saw. Does it not have a
flat table front edge? I'm curious about why a biese won't mount.
All the old saws used round rails with special spacing shoulder bolts
assemblies that had a radiused section to mount the rail. But, for
most saws, to mount a Biese the only requirement was to remove the
guide rail and mount the flat rail directly to the front edge.
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