No, that's what I do.
On my in use Unisaw (not the Katrina soaked unit, that is an
"heirloom" so to speak), I generally have to clean it about once a
quarter because of rust spots from dropped glue, sweat, or just
humidity. I put a little top saver on, then use an RO sander with 30
micron (that's 30 micron, not 30 grit) paper. finish up with table
top lubricant as directed. It finishes fairly slick but, with those
years of sanding, not with a high gloss sheen.
I personally like to have a little resistance on feed. And that it be
uniform, even across the insert. I think that is safer. I don't want
to start slick and hit a rough patch or vice versa on a feed.
On Tue, 03 Jul 2007 12:53:05 -0500, Frank Boettcher
A bunch of our local technicians went down to help Bell South clean up
and sent photos and video back. It was unreal! I also recently saw
the "Dirty Jobs" episode with the post-Katrina house gutters.
We like to think that in modern times we're not susceptible to this
stuff, but Mother Nature always wins. After 9/11 and Katrina, I'm
still blown away by the adaptability and toughness of humans.
Katrina also made me realize just how underappreciated the US Coast
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
Once again, buy the stuff that is make to prevent rust and slick up the top
at the same time.
TopCote and or the Empire products.
Wax is not a good protestant against moisture on wood, it is no different on
In almost 30 years of cast iron tops and having tried almost every thing I
always go back to TopCote and or the Empire products in Humid Houston.
Must be Catholic :-).
I live in an area of relatively low humidity in summer and high in winter.
When I first set up my workshop 20 or so years ago, I used Trewax floor wax
on all the cast iron. The first year or so I had to rewax about every month,
especially in the wet season. Over time, that diminished to about once a
quarter and, for the last several years, once or twice a year.
Unless I set green wood on the iron - yes, I've done that :-).
So my opinion is that over time wax fills the pores of the cast iron and does
prevent rust quite well.
Real OT: Since you mention Houston, Have you ever been to Arne's party supply on
I've been doing his web page for years but haven't been there , but it's
supposed to be HUGE...
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Wats wrong with my spellen? ;~)
My information is just too important to waste any time proof reading and
spell check. LOL
If you decide to try either of the products that I mentioned, you should put
down 2 to 3 initial coats to ensure total coverage.
I have never been there but I have seen their TV ad's on numerous occasions.
I remember the "dog" that walks the isles on TV.
I'll check that out, I was totally unaware that they had a web site. If
they advertise that fact on their TV ad's I do not recall. Then again, I
only remember the dog walking the isles. ;~)
I have a saw in the garage here in Kansas where 60-70% humidity and
95 degree days in August are pretty common.
People think I'm nuts (I might be) but I have a folded over cabinet
box sitting on the saw top and I do not get rust. I discovered this
by accident when I left a piece of cardboard sitting on the extension
table and a part of it was hanging over the iron top. The part of the
saw top where the cardboard was hanging over was smooth and shiny and
the exposed part of the top had that roughness of rust that you can't
quite see yet. I cleaned everything up and since then keep the
cardboard just sitting there. I do use Top-Cote when working on the
saw and before I put it up but I did that before using the cardboard
and still got rust.
My theory (I told you I might be nuts) is that the two layers of very
heavy cardboard traps the moisture before it gets to the top and it's
thick enough to dry out before becoming saturated. I don't set
anything on the cardboard, it just lays there.
I'm not saying this will work where you are but it's a pretty cheap
and easy thing to test. BTW, the cardboard will also keep your wife
from putting her coffee cup on your nice shiny saw top...
You're obviously east of Wichita if that's "common" (other than this
year, anyway). I'm on the opposite end and while temperatures are easily
that, we start complaining when summer humidities approach 35-40%. :)
Basically, it's functioning like any other semi-permeable cover would --
it prevents direct air contact and condensation.
Well I had to go look it up.
From NOAA for Wichita....
30 year average temps in August.... 91.6 F.
49 year average relative humidity in August....
morning 87% afternoon 62%.
Believe it or not, those numbers are just about the same a Miami.
Makes for a nice summer on the job!
It makes sense to me, Mike....
I noticed that there was a noticeably less-rusted spot on the wing where a
cutoff of 1x4 was sitting...
I laid a piece of 1/2" foam board over the saw for now, but it wouldn't absorb
moisture like the cardboard would..
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