Rust removal/prevention on TS

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No, that's what I do.
On my in use Unisaw (not the Katrina soaked unit, that is an "heirloom" so to speak), I generally have to clean it about once a quarter because of rust spots from dropped glue, sweat, or just humidity. I put a little top saver on, then use an RO sander with 30 micron (that's 30 micron, not 30 grit) paper. finish up with table top lubricant as directed. It finishes fairly slick but, with those years of sanding, not with a high gloss sheen.
I personally like to have a little resistance on feed. And that it be uniform, even across the insert. I think that is safer. I don't want to start slick and hit a rough patch or vice versa on a feed.
Frank
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On Tue, 03 Jul 2007 12:53:05 -0500, Frank Boettcher

Outstanding!
A bunch of our local technicians went down to help Bell South clean up and sent photos and video back. It was unreal! I also recently saw the "Dirty Jobs" episode with the post-Katrina house gutters.
We like to think that in modern times we're not susceptible to this stuff, but Mother Nature always wins. After 9/11 and Katrina, I'm still blown away by the adaptability and toughness of humans.
Katrina also made me realize just how underappreciated the US Coast Guard is.
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wrote:

THAT'S where I heard of them, from your posts at the time, Frank..
mac
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Once again, buy the stuff that is make to prevent rust and slick up the top at the same time.
TopCote and or the Empire products.
Wax is not a good protestant against moisture on wood, it is no different on iron.
In almost 30 years of cast iron tops and having tried almost every thing I always go back to TopCote and or the Empire products in Humid Houston.
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Leon wrote:

Must be Catholic :-).
I live in an area of relatively low humidity in summer and high in winter. When I first set up my workshop 20 or so years ago, I used Trewax floor wax on all the cast iron. The first year or so I had to rewax about every month, especially in the wet season. Over time, that diminished to about once a quarter and, for the last several years, once or twice a year.
Unless I set green wood on the iron - yes, I've done that :-).
So my opinion is that over time wax fills the pores of the cast iron and does prevent rust quite well.
--
It's turtles, all the way down

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Larry Blanchard wrote:

Similar experience (over 30+ years) -- it's far the cheapest/simplest and an actually somewhat pleasant chore occasionally imo...
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"Protectant" Thank you very much. LOL I think my spell checker is illiterate and I know that it cannot read my mind.
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Real OT: Since you mention Houston, Have you ever been to Arne's party supply on Hicks St.? I've been doing his web page for years but haven't been there , but it's supposed to be HUGE...
http://www.arneswarehouse.com /
mac
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Wats wrong with my spellen? ;~) My information is just too important to waste any time proof reading and spell check. LOL
If you decide to try either of the products that I mentioned, you should put down 2 to 3 initial coats to ensure total coverage.

I have never been there but I have seen their TV ad's on numerous occasions. I remember the "dog" that walks the isles on TV.

I'll check that out, I was totally unaware that they had a web site. If they advertise that fact on their TV ad's I do not recall. Then again, I only remember the dog walking the isles. ;~)
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On Tue, 03 Jul 2007 08:47:37 -0700, mac davis

I have a saw in the garage here in Kansas where 60-70% humidity and 95 degree days in August are pretty common. People think I'm nuts (I might be) but I have a folded over cabinet box sitting on the saw top and I do not get rust. I discovered this by accident when I left a piece of cardboard sitting on the extension table and a part of it was hanging over the iron top. The part of the saw top where the cardboard was hanging over was smooth and shiny and the exposed part of the top had that roughness of rust that you can't quite see yet. I cleaned everything up and since then keep the cardboard just sitting there. I do use Top-Cote when working on the saw and before I put it up but I did that before using the cardboard and still got rust.
My theory (I told you I might be nuts) is that the two layers of very heavy cardboard traps the moisture before it gets to the top and it's thick enough to dry out before becoming saturated. I don't set anything on the cardboard, it just lays there.
I'm not saying this will work where you are but it's a pretty cheap and easy thing to test. BTW, the cardboard will also keep your wife from putting her coffee cup on your nice shiny saw top...
Mike O.
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Mike O. wrote: ...

You're obviously east of Wichita if that's "common" (other than this year, anyway). I'm on the opposite end and while temperatures are easily that, we start complaining when summer humidities approach 35-40%. :)

Basically, it's functioning like any other semi-permeable cover would -- it prevents direct air contact and condensation.
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Well I had to go look it up. From NOAA for Wichita.... 30 year average temps in August.... 91.6 F. 49 year average relative humidity in August.... morning 87% afternoon 62%. Believe it or not, those numbers are just about the same a Miami.
Makes for a nice summer on the job!
Mike O.
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It makes sense to me, Mike.... I noticed that there was a noticeably less-rusted spot on the wing where a cutoff of 1x4 was sitting... I laid a piece of 1/2" foam board over the saw for now, but it wouldn't absorb moisture like the cardboard would..
mac
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