rust prevention - Penetrol + Johnson paste wax

Several searches have suggested this recipe is one of the better, if not best, for rust control of cast iron table tops.
Anyone else have an opinion? Top Coat is another commercial product that reportedly works well. The folks supporting Penetrol have some impressive stories.
I just bought a used Jet cabinet saw and and have several other tops I'd like to protect especially now that I have moved to a more humid part of the country.
I had applied some auto wax, so I think step 1 is to remove it. What should I use? What prep steps should I take before I apply the Penetrol and then Johnson paste wax?
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I use acetone to remove wax from furniture and it comes squeaky clean so I assume that will work well. When using auto waxes be very careful not to use ones that have any silicon which most do now days. Tiny amounts of silicon will wreak havoc on film finishes and sometimes hurt staining too.
Top Cote gets bad marks from some folks. I've used it only to help slick up a surface that was not sliding well and it was a good temp fix for that but I haven't used it for rust protection. Furniture wax seems to be the standard. The old guys will tell you to just rub out your tops with wax paper but I worry about what wax it uses now days. I suppose some sort of oil bath first couldn't hurt. Haven't heard of Penetrol but sounds like WD 40 or something.

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Penetrol is a highly refined linseed oil, triple boiled...or some- such. It will dry like a finish.
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trol and then Johnson paste wax?

Penetrol Oil-Based Paint Additive http://www.flood.com/flood/Products/PaintAdditives/Penetrol+Interior+Prod+Page.htm
Enhances penetration and adhesion of oil-based paints and primers
Make interior painting projects flow more smoothly by using Penetrol Oil Paint Conditioner with oil or alkyd paints. Penetrol reduces brush marks and leveling problems with the paint, and reduces fatigue and frustration with painting projects.
Where To Use Add to oil or alkyd paints to condition it to flow more smoothly while improving the penetration and adhesion of the paint. Improves leveling so you can expect a smoother coat thats easier to apply.
Application Stir and mix paint thoroughly and apply. When paint pulls or sets too fast, add Penetrol until the paint spreads smoothly and easily. Let the brush, roller or spray be the guide. Add enough Penetrol to make the paint work smoothly, giving sufficient wet edge time. Start with about a 10% addition of Penetrol. If paint is very thick, or weather hot or cold, 20-30% more Penetrol may be required. (For example, one quart of Penetrol per gallon of paint). After paint is used for a while, more Penetrol may be needed. NOTE: Addition of Penetrol may raise coating VOC. Please check with local and applicable VOC regulations before using Penetrol. The amount of Penetrol needed for easy application of flat, semi- gloss and gloss paints does not change their appearance.
Dry Time The majority of oil-based paints when applied at room temperature will be dry (set-to-touch) within 8 to 24 hours.
Clean Up Clean up tools with mineral spirits. Danger! Rags, steel wool or waste soaked with this product may spontaneously catch fire if improperly discarded. Immediately after use, place rags, steel wool or waste in a sealed, water-filled metal container.
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penetrol as rust prevention.. http://faculty.icc.edu/eockerhausen/tips.asp http://www.floodaustralia.net/products/penetrol_rust.htm http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t 10
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I believe that is the first time I have ever seen that even suggested on this group.
coloradotrout wrote:

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The ridgid forum source is the one with the most tangible info for woodworkers. That's what got me to start asking questions. But, like others, I hate to pour something atop my baby (aka cabinet saw). Johnson paste wax is the safe bet, but we get pretty humid here and in the course of our move in August I have small pits on my TS, jointer, and bandsaw tables. I'd really like to do all I can to prevent rust.
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TopCote remains the gold standard in my opinion.
There have been many discussions over the years about this subject, but TopCote remains the top performing product in that class.
I live next to a salt water river and 3 miles from the Atlantic ocean and I can promise you that I have VERY high humidity.
Topcote has performed the best for me.
Your mileage might vary.
http://www.bostik-us.com/products/index.asp?fa tegories&divisionId=6&categoryId'
coloradotrout wrote:

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You sure that is Penetrol ???
http://www.flood.com/flood/Products/PaintAdditives/Penetrol+Interior+Prod+Page.htm
coloradotrout wrote:

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I use TopCote and some times I use Empire top saver. I live in a humid zone, Houston, and add in to that mix the presence of salt in the air. I bought a new Jet cabinet saw in 2000 IIRC and had previously always used TopCote on my Craftsman saw. I had a can of Boshield waiting for the new saw. I applied a liberal cot to the top and had rust on the top surface the next morning.
I went back to TopCote. DIY TopCote was invented by the makers of Empire products, "Top Saver",
IMHO the problem with wax based products in a humid environment is that you have to over coat the top and remove the excess before using the equipment. TopCote never has to be removed regardless of how many coats you put down. If you are in a humid environment I strongly suggest a minimum of 3 initial top cotes "IMMEDIATELY" after cleaning of the factory applied protestant, not tomorrow or later tonight, immediately. Additionally things will happen and cause rust spots. You may drip sweat on the top and not notice or drip a drink, etc. Empire Top Saver will almost completely restore the brighter metal surface in most cases if the need arises. By accident I discovered that Wood Glue will remove rust. I often have drops of glue hit the TS surface and dry. When I chip/pop the glue from the surface a silvery clean surface is revealed. Treat that spot immediately!
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So I have a pretty clean top right now, with a few discolorations. Likewise for the jointer and bandsaw.
How best do I "clean" them, before I lay down one of these rust prevention treatments?

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.
Gang I recently purrchased a shaper and in the instruction booklet they said to clean the table top with a good wax and degreaser and then rub the table down with talcum powder for rust prevention. Has anyone tried this before? I have always used a paste wax on my equipment tables for rust prevention but would be interesed in seeing if this works.
Paul
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[...snip...]

Re: talcum powder; I recall seeing that before. It is supposed to fill the pores in a cast iron surface and keep rust away, reduce and friction. I don't think it will last very long, however.
Anyway, do a Google search on the topic and you will find many hits.

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wrote:
So I have a pretty clean top right now, with a few discolorations. Likewise for the jointer and bandsaw.
How best do I "clean" them, before I lay down one of these rust prevention treatments?
Empire Top saver will help get rid of the patina that developes over time alsong with the surface rust. For a good cleaning I put a ScotchBrite pad under my ROS and use that to work the TopSaver product intot he surface.
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On Tue, 16 Dec 2008 11:26:34 -0800 (PST), coloradotrout

I have used Johnson wax on my table top and jointer for over 17 years. I buff it out with rags. To clean the top I'd use kerosene or mineral spirits. I found that the kerosene will remove thin coats of rust, and kind to skin.
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coloradotrout wrote:

I pretend I'm telling my wife that Chuck Norris is coming over to remove the rust. The rust then quickly leaves on it's own.
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