For many years, the house voltage was quoted a 110/220. I have no idea why
it would have been that way, but that is what Philadelphia Electric called
it and what I called it for many years. Still do actually. Has there been
any changes in what the power companies supply over the years?
I see motors are rated as 115/230. Why would they rate them at those
voltages if the 120/240 is the standard?
Why are incandescent lamps sometimes rated as 120/130 volts? Do you have to
rewire the filament to the supplied voltage? ;)
I posted a similar question to alt.home.repair a couple years ago.
Some people said that voltage actually used to be lower years ago and has
only recently been standardized on 120v. Others said that motors frequently
encounter large voltage drops, so they are designed to work at 115v.
Beyond that, your guess is a good as mine.
I would have 4 put in and make sure that the electrician uses standard
sockets so you can buy the plugs at the Borg. (cabinet saw, jointer, planer,
bandsaw. You may not have all of these now, but you'll kick yourself later
on if you upgrade.)
There's a whole bunch of different style sockets used for 220V service.
You need to give the electrician something better than "standard
socket". If that's all you tell him, he'll have to guess what you mean
and you may not be happy with his guess.
My guess is that you want a 6-20R, which is a grounded 20 amp 2-pole
(i.e. 220V) outlet which will accept both 6-20P (20 amp) and 6-15P (15
amp) plugs. The 6-15P is (in my experience) the most likely plug you're
going to find on a 220V machine up to about 3HP intended for the
consumer or low-end industrial market.
But, the real answer is to look at the specs for the machines you're
interested in having and seeing what kind of plugs they come with. If
you don't understand the specs, sit down with your electrician, show him
all the spec sheets, and say, "I want outlets I can plug these things
I'd like to thank everybody for their input...it's been very helpful.
Admittedly, my knowledge is not very good on this subject. I did find
out the house has a 220/240 line going to the laundry area already, so
there is a line coming into the house. I decided that since I have no
immediate need for 220 at this time, that I think I'll pass on it for
now. I'm also thinking that by the time I need it I'll have a shop
built in back (my wife hopes so), in which case I'd have to hire an
electrician to run power to it anyway. There are a lot of good
arguements for and against, and it would be nice to have power in the
garage, just in case, but at this point I'm trying to scrape every
penny I can for closing and other related moving expenses. Thanks
again for your help.
Just a suggestion, I would try to visit the site and talk to the
electrician. Give him the $200 and get him to stub in some empty
conduit to the crawl space or attic in the garage and near the panel.
As far as the future shop goes same idea. Then when your ready to
proceed its easy to get the power into the panel with out having to
cut into anything.
On 4 Apr 2004 15:49:21 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org (Tom M.) wrote:
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