Runners for Cross Cut Sled - Hardwood or Aluminum?

(I saw your reply to the other post.) Also keep in mind that there is a front and back solid piece of wood bridging the two sides of the sled. The saw blade doesn't cut through these solid pieces, no matter the angle or height of the blade. Something to keep in mind when making yours-- design and build it so those pieces are quite a bit higher than the blade at it's highest setting.

That's for a double sides sled. There are single sides designs out there, which have much shorter fences because they aren't bridging the saw blade.

Reply to
-MIKE-
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I did notice that because I made a fence on my miter that was not but sometimes i like learning the hard way but not always

Reply to
Electric Comet

Perhaps, but the location is also used to calculate tax. I went through the order up to where I had to pull the trigger, just to see what their shipping charges were. Of course there could be a mistake but it showed no shipping charges.

Sure, but shipping can *easily* eat that up. Amazon has some great prices, too, but the shipping charges can absolutely kill ya'. ;-)

Reply to
krw

'sneak up' is the key here.

I've read (and it's true for my tablesaw) that Delta slots are a tad over 3/4". This makes using a piece of 3/4" Aluminum bar not so good unless I use both miter slots and shift the bars together (or apart) to rub on a single edge. Every aftermarket miter slot dodad I have gives me grief. The bulldog featherboard works great, but I have to tighten the snot out of it to get the expanding wedge to grip the miter slot tightly.

Using wood lets you get a perfect fit.

-BR

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Reply to
Brewster

Incra (and others) make adjustable miter bars to solve this problem.

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Reply to
krw

Those work very well for most applications. But damn if they don't scratch the hell out of everything! :-p

Haha! Seriously though, that's a great product.

Reply to
-MIKE-

;-)

Well, I don't slide it across the top. They're supposed to be in the miter slot.

I haven't actually used them, other than on my 1000HD.

Reply to
krw

I would use two hardwood runners instead of a single runner of either. Why, because the two runners gives greater accuracy and the hardwood runners are much easier to replace and have a similar life service time as the aluminum ones.

That being said, it all depends on the "hardwood" chosen. For me it would be either jatoba or jarrah, though ipe is certainly a good choice.

Deb

Reply to
Dr. Deb

I have an Incra miter. This miter uses nylon 'washers' that expand outwards with a screw. In theory it works fine, but on my table saw they are expanded to the limit and tend to wear quickly. The original Delta miter bar has a perfect fit, but the bar is too short to transfer it over to my Incra. I can't really see how the bar sold by Rockler adjusts, I assume it also expands where the slots are. A better solution but with only two points of adjustment there would be issues when the bar has only one of the points in the slot, such as when mitering a wide board.

I solved the problem by drilling a bunch of threaded holes through the side of the Incra miter bar and installing set screws with the spring loaded ball bearing tips (problem solved). Being that the OEM Delta bar has a great fit, the sizes seem to be standard within a manufacture (my old Craftsman saw had slots narrower than 3/4"). It would be nice to just be able to buy a miter with a manufacture-specific bar.

-BR

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Reply to
Brewster

What saw? My '09 Unisaur has a .750" (as close as I can measure it) miter bar. The Incra and JessEm bars are exactly the same.

Nice idea!

Reply to
krw

Unisaur, 2002 thereabouts (Platinum 75th Ed.), .758" My Incara bar is .728".

I have some of the blue anodized Rockler miter bar left over from my router table. It measures .748" and is a bit too wobbly on the table saw.

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Reply to
Brewster

Seems the Unisaur isn't that far oversized, rather the Incra is *way* too small and probably defective. I'd ask Incra what its dimension should be. Maybe they'll send a replacement.

Reply to
krw

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