I doubt you'll scrape off the Boeshield with your fingernail but I try
not to drag my fingernails across the top, too. Nah, wood and plastic
might push it around some but it's not going to plow through it.
I guess I could put UHMW strips on the bottom but really, the miter
gauges do scratch the surface, in multiple places.
On 2/3/2015 8:49 PM, email@example.com wrote:
If yu are using Boeshield to protect your TS top you don't have near the
rust problem you might think you have.
Boeshield absolutely would did not offer enough protection for me when I
first used it 15 years ago. TopKote and its successor is the only thing
that works for me.
Rust *is* a problem. I used to have the saw in the garage when I
lived in Alabama. I now have a basement but it's still very humid. I
keep one of the magnetic covers on the saw, and a beach towel on top
I've been thinking of trying TopKote (or whatever it's called these
days) and even bought a can but it doesn't say anything about
preventing rust. Did they change the formula? I really don't like
Boeshield but I like rust a lot less.
On 2/4/2015 6:34 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Way back when, when Topcote was originally made by Empire, I bought it
to only slick up my TS Top, that is what it was made for. It was great
for that but after about 6 months I noticed that I was no longer having
an issue with rust.
You need to put on a lot the first time, a few coats and the more you
use it the better it protects. It is not guaranteed to prevent rust but
as a bonus it works better for me than any thing else I have tried.
On 2/4/2015 9:03 PM, email@example.com wrote:
Fortunately they are a local place for me that I have been doing
business with for 20+ years. I would suspect their web site not
determining a correct shipping price.... Seems if there were free
shipping there would not be an input location for destination.
This store is top notch with very helpful people and they typically beat
the pants off of the competition prices.
Either way the average price, elsewhere, for a can is around $18-19.
On Wednesday, February 4, 2015 at 11:42:21 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
I can second Leon's opinion of cabinethardware.com's customer service.
Based on Leon's recommendation, I purchased some drawer slides from them. T
he website listed the slides as Full Extension, Soft Close. I ordered four
22" slides and one 12" slide. I found that the 12" slide was not full exten
sion. When I called, the CSR did some research and found that the 12" in th
at line was indeed *not* Full Extension, nor were 14" of the same model. Ho
wever, the same manufacturer had another (more expensive) line of slides an
d the 14" in that line was Full Extension. He offered to send me a 14" Full
Extension slide, no charge of course, which I accepted.
I checked the website a few hours later and it had already been updated to
show that the particular 12" and 14" slides in the line that I originally b
ought were 3/4 Extension.
It will take a few adjustments to fit the 14" slide in where I was going to
put the 12", but it will fit. Overall, I was extremely satisfied with my d
ealings with cabinethardware.com's customer service department.
Perhaps, but the location is also used to calculate tax. I went
through the order up to where I had to pull the trigger, just to see
what their shipping charges were. Of course there could be a mistake
but it showed no shipping charges.
Sure, but shipping can *easily* eat that up. Amazon has some great
prices, too, but the shipping charges can absolutely kill ya'. ;-)
I will say that with enough repeated passes most anything will cause a
wear pattern on cast iron. I have those all over the place running
parallel to the blade and perpendicular to the blade. Parallel marks
from the miter gauges/sleds/wood. Perpendicular marks from the fence
support pad that slides across the back of the TS top, that is the low
friction plastic stuff. Anyway the wear marks are only visible you
certainly can't feel them nor are they more susceptible to rust.
On Monday, February 2, 2015 at 12:38:43 PM UTC-8, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Hardwood, waxed, works fine. My saw lives in a shed, and dissimilar
metals in contact can be troublesome (so the aluminum idea bothers me).
Rather than glue, or predrill and screw, I used POP rivets (so
that's SOME aluminum content). A POP rivet head needs very little
countersink depth, and the sled was 1/4" plywood.
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