Router Table Questions????????

I am wondering what are some of the most important features that you look for in a router table?
My second question is, if you could make any improvements to the current router table systems that are on the market right now, what would they be?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Some fundamentals: http://patwarner.com/router_table.html ***********************************************************************

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Granitebear wrote:

good dust collection big enough table sturdy fence with split faces

There are any number of systems out there that would be great....but they're all more expensive than I was willing to pay.
I made mine out of MDF, plywood, some free laminate, 2x4s, chipboard, and some T-track and cam levers. Works very nicely, has held up for several years now.
Chris
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Pat has already provided a lot of good info, and I can't add many technical details to that. But very briefly, IMO the priorities are: 1. Square and straight fence, easily adjustable (can be simply a board and clamps) 2. Flat table (no sags, surface should be fairly smooth) 3. Decent dust collection through fence (and possibly under table as well, shopvac is plenty) 4. Ability to add featherboards/holddowns/etc is nice, but for most hobbyist router operations, I'd say these things are a ways down on the priority list.
Just my thoughts - not an exhaustive list. Hope this helps, Andy
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
"Granitebear" wrote

I just finished this and, at some point I expect to build my own top. http://tinyurl.com/youmug
The one shown is from Rockler. I would like a slightly larger top with a larger fence. Additionally, the Rockler top is melamine and I intend to use a laminate for more durability.
With the acquisition of the Milwaukee 5625-20 http://tinyurl.com/2gs535 which has a feature allowing height adjustment through the top (with a T handle) I see no need for a "router raiser".
Max
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

It appears that soemthing went awry with those URLs so I'll try again.
http://tinyurl.com/2maued Router table pics.
http://tinyurl.com/2lv55r Milwaukee router
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

A couple of years back I built a router table based on Pat Warner design. Best router table I ever had plus I've learnt a bit while building it.
The most important features? - sturdy and flat top. I have a 3.5 HP fixed base router hanging under with no problems. Add a good fence and you are in business!
regards, alexM
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Have any of you tried the MLCS cast iron top?
It looks interesting, especially for owners of magnetic attachements, but I wonder about the flatness.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Granitebear wrote:

The right height for me, an easily adjustable split fence with easily made replacement faces, and a flat top. I didn't bother with a lift, but I understand why lots of folks buy them.

I simply built my own with a 1 1/2" laminated both sides MDF top, which sits on an MDF box.
I'll pay big bucks for tools, but as a Frid-esque type of guy, I find a lot of store bought router tables to be rather overpriced.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
My router table is home made from birch ply covered by mdf and then formica. MDF is smoother than plywood so I get a smoother top. The plywood under the MDF keeps the table from sagging. I had to thicken it up because it's an extension to my table saw. I have an insert from Wood Peck's and a DeWalt 625 router that I picked up from the pawn shop for $80. The insert was a couple hundred. I made my own split fence with removable inserts. I would probably want to improve on any type of fence system that I bought anyway...
I've made good use of the large table by routing oversized plywood sheets (up to 4' in length) so I would suggest making sure your table is sized to the kind of work you do. My only disappointment with the current setup is that I was unable to get a 100% flat surface when I put on the formica. The glue puddled up in some areas and I have a couple of bumps under it. They're not in a critical area but they're still annoying. It may have been caused by old glue or my piss poor application of it. I like the formica as a work surface. Mine has a fine texture that makes it easy to move wood across it.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I made a NYW base and spent the money on a phonalic (sp) top, lift, large router, and micro adjust fence (jointtec). Being enclosed gives better noise reduction and dust contol from both the box and the fence is great.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.