Router out of square

I've had a Bosche plunge router for several years now, and like it very much. While adjusting a round-over bit in it, I discovered that the base is not square to the collet. Instantly, this explained so many of the little problems I've had over the years.
My question is this, how does one go about adjusting the base so that everthing's square? Do I shim the base? What do I use as a reference?
I looked through the Starrett catalog to see if there were cylindrical ? or whatever that I could chuck into a router for testing. Sort of like using a straight-edge for jointers & table saws. It could be used for a drill-press too.
I have never seen anybody address this, and wonder how big of an issue it is.
Thanks for any help in advance.
Mike Dembroge
P.S. Does Par Warner's book discuss this type of thing?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Mike Dembroge asks:

Someone used to make a little pointed steel round, several inches long, for centering drill press chucks, and checking chuck run-out. Lee Valley? I can't find it on-line, but it should be ideal for your purposes. Then just shim until it is square to the base.
Charlie Self "Character is much easier kept than recovered." Thomas Paine
http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Jesada sold one... Tom

is
or
a
drill-press
for
can't
until
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Rockler also offers one

base
little
?
using
it
shim
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Okay, thanks. Maybe I'll peruse their catalog or try contacting them.
Mike

base
little
?
using
it
shim
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 27 Jan 2004 09:56:18 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@aol.comnotforme (Charlie Self) wrote:

the point will work for centering but not so well for squaring. get a length of ground drill rod (either 1/4" or 1/2", depending on the size of your collet) and an accurate square. get the drill rod long enough to match the long leg of the square plus some for the collet.
as far as how to adjust the router base or if it's even possible, I don't have that router, so I'll STFU now....
    Bridger
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
(Charlie Self)

base is

little
or
using a

drill-press
it
for
can't
until
Well, I haven't tackled it yet, but my first thought was to use shims. There must be a way. It's pretty important to have the router be square afterall.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Wed, 28 Jan 2004 06:27:47 GMT, "Mike Dembroge"

checking it with a square as I suggested is probably good enough, but checking it with a dial indicator is better, and not that much more work. wish I'd thought of that (G).
shimming the base ought to work. it's a plunge router, right? if the misalignment is axial to the plunge rods I suppose it's possible that there is an adjustment there. I'd look at that before making any changes to the base.
if you do end up shimming, you might want to secure the shims with some sort of glue, applied only to the subbase.... easier to reverse if you change your mind later.     Bridger
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

is
or
a
drill-press
for
can't
until
Yes, I saw one sometime somewhere, but I can't remember. I think it was in a magazine review, but I can't remember. And honestly, I'm not sure what such a bar would be called, so using google or online-distrubutor's search functions was tricky.
Thank you very much for your help.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Many woodworking catalogs have KNOW Pins, reference shafts you chuck in the router to give you a CENTER and a straight edge reference
John
On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 04:45:38 GMT, "Mike Dembroge"

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Thanks John. Now that I know what they're called, I should be able to do a better job searching.
wrote:

is
or
a
drill-press
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I would go to the Borg and buy a foot of 1/2" smooth steel rod. Check it for straightness before buying (a much smaller piece is all that is needed, but it is probably sold by the foot).
Dave Hall
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Mike, If you chuck a "Last Word" type indicator in the router spindle, then swing it, you will see how far it is out. A mill supply should have any adaptors that you may need. A Starrett would be best but is pricey. Opt for an import. You will find a multitude of uses for it in a wood shop including your drill press and table saw.
On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 04:45:38 GMT, "Mike Dembroge"

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I have this http://shop.woodcraft.com/Woodcraft/product_family.asp?family%5Fid 5&giftlse&mscssidB084B9F8034C65953033D379B7DC1B . It has a 1/2" pin that you chuck into the router and you attach a dial indicator to that. It is the setup that is attached to the drill press in the picture. Perhaps you can come up with a similar setup.
Preston

is
or
a
drill-press
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Don't know how to fix it, but to check it just get a dowel pin like this: http://tinyurl.com/2h6ay
Handy to have for other stuff too.
-- ******** Bill Pounds http://www.bill.pounds.net/woodshop

is
or
a
drill-press
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.