router lift

I am considering buying a router lift table insert system. Anybody have a recommendation as to which one?
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Jim Neuman




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I wouldn't part with the Raizer NOW. Can't compare but it sure makes life easier.

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Took a look at the woodpecker catalog and see the router lift is about $289.00 with their plunge lift at $169.00.
A Router Razier is $79.00 + shipping, is the extra $80 or so well spent getting the alum insert, the pin, and the removable rings with the plunge lift?
It seems the plunge lift makes more sense for a dedicated in the table router, vs one that you have to pull out and use by hand on occassion.
Alan
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I have the Razier on a Freud and I love it. it is perm in the table. for me it is too heavy to use free hand.
If I had to do it again, probably get a different router that allowed easier access to the the collet but the razier is great, I would do that again.
BRuce
Alan W wrote:

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Get the woodpecker Precision Router Lift. It is rock solid and accurate. I have the 32 pitch version and it makes height adjustments to the tune of 0.001" easily and repeatably. Also, it has two guide rods so it won't rack. I have a heavy PC 7518 router beast in it, and it hasn't sagged at all.
Mike
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Hi Mike,
Do you also use a cordless drill for fast height adjustments? that's what i do with my 16 pitch PRL.
dave
Mike in Mystic wrote:

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Hi Dave,
I haven't done that yet. It does take me a little effort to move the bits up and down, but not so much that it bothers me all that much. I have an extra crank, so one of these days I'll remove the handle and start using the drill, which will definitely be a useful thing to do. Lately, I'm just happy if I can even get in the shop at all hehe!
Mike
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I use a mechanics 1/4" drive speed handle and a socket with a 3/8" hex drive bit built in. It's easier to use than the wrench supplied with the PRL because of the knob being above the crank. I also use the offset wrenches sold by Woodpecker so I don't have to raise it all the way to change bits.
Frank
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sounds like an excellent alternative. I spoke to Woodpeckers about putting a sleeve on the long crank shaft, so that one could grip a smooth surface instead of hanging on to that infernal hex shaft to steady it. Hopefully that will make it into production soon...
dave
Frank K. wrote:

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I've got the same setup and agree completely. I use a dial indicator to zero out the bits, then I can set the height very accurately just by counting cranks and watching the thou indicators.
Mine is paired with an Incra fence system, which has similar accuracy.
No, I don't use a drill either. Even at 32tpi, it doesn't take *that* long to change the height, and with a crank I can count turns and keep track of the bit height.
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I too, count turns when necessary, DJ. BTW, the 16 tooth model is also accurate to .001. It's easy to set it to 1/2 between two marks on the dial. (Not that I usually need more than .002 accuracy anyway, but it's there...) I also have an Incra Twin Linear and I appreciate the micro adjust capability, esp. for adjusting a dado's width.
dave
DJ Delorie wrote:

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How do you set up your dial indicator tell when the bit is at zero? Are you above the bit looking down and have it mounted to fence of something so you have a relative to the table reading?
Alan
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I would imagine he just zeroes it to the table and then locks it in place, moves it over the bit and raise the bit so it just touches the plunger on the dial indicator.

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I zero the indicator on the lift plate, then move it over the bit edge and zero the bit. The indicator is heavy enough to just sit on the aluminum plate, but I'm still careful to keep the indicator close to the base so it won't tip.
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I have the same thing except I have the 16tpi version.
I love it!
I also have an Eliminator chuck. Makes bit changes even easier.
Rob

a
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I've got a PRL. I decided to get the 16 pitch thread instead of the 32 pitch, because moving the thing up/down takes a long time with the 32. I'm glad I got it. There is no backlash at all in the lift mechanism, so you can set the height PRECISELY. Just remember; it ain't cheap! The competing brand uses a belt and I looked it over very carefully at the Sacramento WW show earlier this year. The salesman said it doesn't have backlash. IT DOES! LOTS! That turned me off, even though the rest of it is very well built. As a matter of fact, IMO, it's better built (overall) than the PRL, BUT the belt drive was unacceptable to me.
Hope this helps.
dave
Jim Neuman wrote:

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I'm very satisfied with my Benchdog. I use a drill (with a socket bit) to run it all the way up to change bits. They give you a handle to make precise adjustments. It is well build and should last a few decades of use. There are a few others that look good also, so check the features that may be most important to you. Ed
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Would the extra $100 be well spent to purchase a router lift vs buying a Router Razier at $79.00?
The price difference is even smaller if you figure in the insert that comes with the router lift vs. the one you have to purchase for the Router Razier.
My router, FWIIW is a Hitachi TR12
Alan
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