Router Jig Mortising Question

<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en"> <html> I built a jig for my plunge router to do mortises.&nbsp; Found&nbsp; the design in FWW. <br>My problem is the router rides on a 3/4" piece of plywood and the workpiece clamps below it.&nbsp; So in order to reach the work piece and then the depth of the mortise I have to pull the router bit out of the collett further than I usually do in other applications. <br>How much of the shank needs to be in the collett?&nbsp; I don't wantthe bit to wobble, or come out and tear up the work, the jig or me. <p>Thanks for advise.<p>Bruce</html>
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There has been a lot of conversation regarding this in the past. A search of this group should give a several different perspectives. I try to keep at minimum 2/3 of the shank in the collet for several of my jigs. I have several jigs of this nature so over time I have bought proper bit length to match the intended job and recommend doing the same.
EJ
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Somewhere I read a minimum of 1". I use a router jig where the workpiece clamps even with the router. It is very simple and works well. You might try another type of jig. BTW, I also own a Powermatic mortiser and since I tried the router mortising jig, the Powermatic doesn't get near as much use.
Preston
I built a jig for my plunge router to do mortises. Found the design in FWW. My problem is the router rides on a 3/4" piece of plywood and the work piece clamps below it. So in order to reach the work piece and then the depth of the mortise I have to pull the router bit out of the collett further than I usually do in other applications. How much of the shank needs to be in the collett? I don't want the bit to wobble, or come out and tear up the work, the jig or me. Thanks for advise. Bruce
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