Router For Router table

[Sonny]

I need another router for a router table, not for hand-held use. I've tried searching the net, etc., ...even Consumer Reports, for an appropriate one, with no reasonable luck.

I think I need a multi-speed one (2 speed?), at least 3 hp, 1/2" collet that can also have a 1/4" collet installed. I don't think I need a plunge router, but that may be ok for a table unit. I'm not familiar with a plunge router, so I don't know if the plunge aspect is appropriate for table use.

Would someone give me some recommendations for the best router choice for table mounted use?

Optional: I've also been searching for an appropriate 3/4" collet for my 1/2" spindle shaper. Actually, I have 2 shapers, both with 1/2" spindles. I've looked at this site

but I can't figure out exactly what I need. I am wondering if my 2 different kinds of shapers, 1982 Craftsman and 1948 Rockwell, would require different kinds of collets, or is there a "universal" collet that will fit either. The above website gives me no info regarding this. I've looked at Delta's collets and see no reference to a 3/4" one. I am wondering if these 3/4" shaft router bits, I bought, require a special kind of router/shaper, like a CNC machine or special industrial shaper, rather than a general woodworker's/hobbist's shaper. I'm not familiar, at all, with CNC machines and don't plan on getting one. Some of these large shaft bits require speeds 8000 RPMs or less, whereas my shapers are 9000 RPMs, but I can always replace a pulley to reduce the spindle speed.

I use the Rockwell shaper for all of my shaping. I would prefer to convert the Craftsman shaper for the larger bits use and leave the Rockwell as is. I also wonder if the 1/2 hp shaper motor is sufficient for these large shafted bits.

[Sonny]

RE: Above.

Thanks for any help. Sonny

[Ed Pawlowski]

Plunge is not usually used in a table. Nice to have a good lift though like the Benchdog.

Take a look at

and see what he has to say. You want a variable, not 2 speed. Any of the better brands will do, Bosch, Milwaukee, P-C.

[Sonny]

I've also sent these folks

note asking for assistance. I've yet to hear from them.

Sonny

[Robatoy]

3/4" shafted bits are most likely CNC bits. The collets that fit shapers are usually to fit regular router bits. I have never seen 3/4" collets to fit a shaper, either a 1/2", 3/4 or a 1.25" even. That does not mean that they're not out there. That suggested operational speed of 8000 RPM may well have to do with specific chip-clearance applications rather than the operating safety parameters. If the bit in question are under 2" =D8 then 9K won't bother them.

[Lew Hodgett]

Think Milwaukee.

Check out Pat Warner's site for details.

Lew

[DJ Delorie]

I'm very happy with my PC7815 motor in a woodpecker's lift...

[Robatoy]

I now have 3 Milwaukee routers. Wholly endorsed. Love them... and we work them pretty hard.

[upscale]

A lot of it depends on the amount of money you want to spend and if a router table is going to be a permanent home. After my router was stolen from a friend's garage (and then found) I was all ready to buy a Triton TRA001 router for both handheld plunge routing and router table use. You might want to consider one. The price is excellent for its capabilities and it's popular with more than one woodworker here.

[Larry Blanchard]

Some will tell you that plunge routers are not for router tables. I disagree. I've always used a plunge router in a table because of its ease of adjustment. Now that many are capable of adjustment above the table, it's even easier.

Of course, you could buy a non-plunge router plus a lift, but that's extra money.

Perhaps the best bang for the buck would be one of the models with two bases. Then you could try both. When not using the table, take out the motor and mount it in the other base.

I got the DeWalt 2-base kit last year and I'm happy with it. Porter- Cable and Milwaukee are preferred by many. It's largely a matter of opinion - just don't buy a Craftsman :-).

[joeljcarver]

I use the Porter-Cable 7518 in a Jessem lift. I use this with an external speed control for larger diameter bits. I don't know if it's still true, but the built-in variable speed controls often would fail, and I figured it was better to be able to get a new separate controller than to send the router to the repair shop for an indeterminate period.

[Steve Turner]

Some are and some aren't. I have a Makita 3612C which is a great router (3hp, variable speed, electronic brake), but pretty lousy for table use. I installed a Router Raizer to get above the table height adjustment, but even after removing the extra plunge spring in the column opposite the height adjustment, it's still apparent the router was not designed to be used upside down. The bushings in which the plunge shafts ride are pressed into the aluminum housing, but they work themselves loose in the upside down position and cause misalignment and binding. I "fixed" this by driving them back into correct position, then drilling holes through the housing and into the bushings and installing short roll pins to keep them in place. Also, a router table is an ideal setup for swinging those big (3-1/2" diameter) raised panel bits, but the aluminum base in the 3612C doesn't have an opening big enough for these bits to pass through. I wound up making my own base to get around this problem.

[the_tool_man]

I recommend, in my order of descending preference:

Milwaukee 5625 (I have had one for years, and love it) Porter Cable (I have several smaller ones, and love them, too) Everything else except Freud Freud (I owned one, which was junk)

Regards, John.

[Max]

I recommend, in my order of descending preference:

Milwaukee 5625 (I have had one for years, and love it) Porter Cable (I have several smaller ones, and love them, too) Everything else except Freud Freud (I owned one, which was junk)

Regards, John.

Milwaukee 5625:

[Phisherman]

I have the Porter Cable 7518. It has a good speed range, and you need a slower speed for larger bits. It is about 3 HP, heavy, 1/2" collet, perfect for a router table. The height is adjusted by roating the base. This is a good router, although I think Porter Cable's quality has slightly declined in recent years (have not had any issues with the PC 7518 though) and Milwaulkee may be a better brand. You don't want a plung router for use in a table

[manyirons]

I own a Freud. What can I expect to go wrong with it?

- Owen -

[else24]

I have a Hitachi in the router table and a Freud for everything else.

If it's like mine, nothing. I've been using it three or four years now without a problem although I'm not really working it very hard.

If it's like Max's, I guess just about everything.

[Max]

Pshaw!! I have 2 Hitachis just in case something goes wrong with the Milwaukee. {:-) When I'm doing raised panels I keep a panel raising bit in the Milwaukee, A rail bit in one Hitachi and a stile bit in the other. In the photo, notice that the 2 Hitachis are mounted to plates for the router table.

(

[Sonny]

I bought this one:

with the 1/4" & 1/2" collets. It should be here in a few days. I suppose I need to also get the plate for table mounting. I'll see what the instructions recommend before getting one.

I downloaded Picasa, but have yet to figure out how to load pictures from my computer. Several of you have asked to see pics of my projects, shop remodel, etc. I'm working on it.

Sonny

[the_tool_man]

I bought a Freud FT1700 router for my table. Worked great for a few weeks. Then the shaft lock spring failed, causing the locking pin to engage the shaft while spinning, rendering the shaft lock useless. About a week later, the motor failed. Returned to Freud under warranty, who replaced with new. Shaft lock spring failed on this one, too. I didn't wait for the second motor to die. I just replaced with the Milwaukee and never looked back.

Freud blades and bits are good stuff. I'll never buy any power tools from them again, though.

Regards, John.