Router Cabinet vs Another option

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I recently bought a Milwaulkee router, model or catelogue # 5625-20. I don't have a router cabinet, though I've considered making or buying one. I've discovered this set-up, router mounted under the right side of the table saw extension table: http://irsauctions.com/popups/bidders_paddle.asp?lot 7977&auction=L6QGSC4UBYV495L6FO87ZFYB0HNQH7&id088
Is this a practical option for mounting a router? I have 2 Unisaws with extension tables and if this is a reasonable option for router placement, I may opt for this kind of mounting.
One extension table is 3/4" ply with formica top (rough cutting, utility blade saw) and the other extension table is 1-1/2" solid wood with formica top (fine, delicate and/or precision cutting WWII blade saw). Both saws with Delta 50" Unifence. I would suspect the Unifences are not recommended for router use. Is this correct or is there a modification (sacrificial board?) that can be added to a Unifence for use with a router? In the link, I see no separate fence for the router. Also, which extension table might best be used for the router? I'm thinking the 3/4".... I kinna don't like the idea of cutting a hole in my big 1-1/2" thick extension table (4' W X 6' L). * I haven't used the new router, yet, to know if it will rise far enough to clear a 1-1/2" thick table top properly.
Thanks for any help. Sonny
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"Sonny" wrote:

Take a look at the one Norm did on the NYW.
It certainly filled all my needs.
Used a commercial plate with inserts for various diameter openings.
Have fun.
Lew
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Sonny wrote:

Instead of using a dedicated router table/cabinet, a lot of folks mount their router on the TS extension and find it handy.
Basically it is a matter of personal choice.
There is no reason why you can't use your unifence for a router fence, although an addition like Uni-T fence in the link makes it easier to do so:
http://www.ttrackusa.com/unifence.htm
or this:
http://christophermerrill.net/ww/shop/bigafence.html
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Mounting it under 1-1/2" of material is going to seriously limit your bit choices. There is no need for that much 'deck' to hold that machine. Make a square hole with rounded corners with rabetted inside edges which can hold a slab of 1/2" solid surface. Mount the router to it. If you make more than one insert, you can also make a blank one which will give you a closed in extension top. Slabs of Corian and such are not that hard to obtain from a fabricator. Just ask for a couple of vanity bowl cut-outs. A 12-pack of Erdinger Weiss will get you 2 or 3 at one fabrication shop I know of..<G>
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Sonny, I forgot to mention that it frees up your table saw if you have that set with a particular fence or miter setup. That way you can make repeatable cuts on the table saw without re-setting it up. Hope this helps.....
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rich wrote:

Don't look now, but the boy has TWO unisaws ... sounds like he could spare one for a router setup. :)
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Sonny,
I got a router table from Rockler, mounted it on wheels, and added an Incra fence thingee. I don't see how you can get along without something like this. My dado blade is hardly used anymore. The Incra fence gives repeatable adjustments.
Oh, I added a remote on-off switch - that made it perfect.
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rich wrote:

That's funny. Since I got my better table saw, I can't wait to get a good dado set so I don't have to use the router. :-)
What do you mean by remote? I use a momentary foot switch for mine. I like the idea of it turning off if something dangerous happens and I had to duck for cover.
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-MIKE- wrote:

Agreed. I don't like cutting dadoes on the router if I can do it on the table saw. The cuts are cleaner, it takes far less time (not counting the time it takes to set up the dado blade, of course), and you don't have to make multiple passes if the cuts have any significant depth.
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wrote:

I find it is more accurate, and easier to set up, with fewer chances of error to use a dado stack. Cutting across tall bookshelf sides requires a decent sled. When making dados like that, a RAS is probably the most useful....but ONLY for that job. (I throughly hate those things.) The big advantage of a RAS, is that material thickness can vary without it cause grief when running a whole library full of shelves. A router to do dados is a PITA...unless the thing is mounted on a gantry.
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Robatoy wrote:

Really? With a clamping straightedge guide, they go pretty fast.
With two clamping straightedge guides and a couple spacer blocks, they go even faster.
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wrote:

How do you get within a router base's radius of the end of the board?
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krw wrote:

Sorry, I don't understand.
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wrote:

If you're using the straightedges as dado guides with the base as the pilot, cutting a dado within a half-a-router-base of the end of a board requires the second straightedge to be off the end. ...unless I don't understand what you're doing.
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krw wrote:

Routing to the edge of a board using a straight edge is no problem if you use a square/rectangular base.
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One straightedge, as long as the bit is the same diameter as the dado, *IF* you can keep the router base perfectly tight against it. That's not what he was suggesting though. The technique Mike suggested is interesting but I see the one flaw. I'm asking questions because I like the idea (two straightedges and a "calibrated" block) but want to understand the limitations.
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"krw" wrote:

The only way to eliminate the possibility of a "gotcha" is to use an undersized bit (more than 50% of final dado)and two straight edges straddling the dado. Make a pass each direction cutting first one edge then the other.
Lew
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On Sun, 29 Nov 2009 09:11:22 -0800, "Lew Hodgett"

Yes, I understand that (never though of the reference block, though). I guess I'm not being very clear, but near the end of the board, within a base radius, one of the straightedges will be off the end of the board.
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krw" wrote:

And?
Not only is the straight edge extending beyond the board but the cutter is in free air and almost half the router base is still supported by the board.
No harm, no foul.
Lew
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On Sun, 29 Nov 2009 10:18:35 -0800, "Lew Hodgett"

No, I'm not talking about a rabbet, rather a dado, say 2" from the edge.
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