Router bit trouble / question

I have 3 spiral router bits that are (supposed to be) made of carbide. They have 8 cutters - on the end and along the body. They do great flat bottoming and very clean cuts. I have used 2 of them in my plunge router - and they work great.
Tonight I tried the 3rd one in my router table (same router, PC690) - and it didn't work It burned not cut - and I was working on pine. To the touch the cutters feel sharp The router is turning the right way I did take the protective goop off of it first (actually long ago)
It is a 1/4" shank , and a 3/8" cutter
This is the first time I've used this particular bit
Is there something about spiral bits that they need to get plunged for them to work correctly? It doesn't make sense to me, but I thought I would bring this question to the collective wisdom for some insight.
Thx Matt
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M. Silver
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A left handed tool. More on spirals at the http://www.patwarner.com/faq.html link. ****************************************

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Matt - can you post a link to the bits? Maybe from the manufacturer or dealer? I'm curious to see what type of spiral you bought.
For example, I have some of these: http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-routerbits/sr.cgi?1101228902_15669+9
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Sounds like a bit for a die grinder, not a router. Eight flutes?
-- ******** Bill Pounds http://www.billpounds.com

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I've never seen a carbide spiral bit that had a cutter larger than the shank. They might be high speed steel, and they might be getting dull. Pine is notorious for building up pitch on cutters, too, so make sure you're cleaning the flutes, regularly.
--
Kevin
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Updated information I looked at the 1/2" when I described the 3 of them, and I was wrong
of the 3 bits - all 1/4" shank 1/4" - spiral, 2 spiralling cutters, bought at Lee Valley - I'm sure it is carbide
the other two I bought at the TO wood show last Feb from one of the bit sellers 3/8" - 6 spiralling cutters, with cutting type crown 1/2" - 8 spiralling cutters with cutting type crown
I have since tried the 3/8" in my plunge router on both pine and oak and it works like I recall the 1/2" bit working - great - clean sharp edges at the top of the wood and a flat clean bottom.
Lessons learned: - these two funky bits are only for plunge use - they are not likely carbide - I'm not dead yet - I learned something today (my daily goal)
I have posted pictures of them at http://www.routerforums.com/showthread.php?tG6 If it is hard to find (shouldn't be) it is in general routing, thread about problems with spiral bits in a table.
Thanks for the tips.
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As I just got into this forum, I cannot see what else was stated herein. Please bear with me.
Looks like you got into UP-spiral and DOWN-spiral bits. Up-spiral works perfectly in or out of a table because the chips are always pulled out of the hole. Down-spiral only works good when there is no problem getting rid of the chips (you are cutting a hole through the wood not into it). Good for single sided veneers when you want a clean entrance. If you ever use a down-spiral when not cutting through you will get a small fire and the wood will get burned.
Insofar as carbide is concerned; if you cannot easily discern where the steel leaves off and the carbide begins, they could be solid carbide. Freud makes such bits.
Pass this on to whoever might be interested.
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PDQ
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sure you can: <http://groups.google.com/advanced_group_search?dq=&num%&hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&group=rec.woodworking

bullshit.
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You might add that solid carbide bits are very brittle.
PDQ wrote:

out of the hole. Down-spiral only works good when there is no problem getting rid of the chips (you are cutting a hole through the wood not into it). Good for single sided veneers when you want a clean entrance.

leaves off and the carbide begins, they could be solid carbide. Freud makes such bits.

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Yup. That's why I never could figure out why I would want one.
--
PDQ --
| You might add that solid carbide bits are very brittle. | | PDQ wrote: | > As I just got into this forum, I cannot see what else was stated herein. Please bear with me. | > | > Looks like you got into UP-spiral and DOWN-spiral bits. | > | > Up-spiral works perfectly in or out of a table because the chips are always pulled out of the hole. Down-spiral only works good when there is no problem getting rid of the chips (you are cutting a hole through the wood not into it). Good for single sided veneers when you want a clean entrance. | > | > If you ever use a down-spiral when not cutting through you will get a small fire and the wood will get burned. | > | > Insofar as carbide is concerned; if you cannot easily discern where the steel leaves off and the carbide begins, they could be solid carbide. Freud makes such bits. | > | > Pass this on to whoever might be interested. | > |
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Yup. That's why I never could figure out why I would want one.
That's the only way I could find them in 1/8". And only iwth 1/4" shank
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