Rookie jointer question


OK, so I finally got around to buying a jointer this past week, and tried using it for the first time today (the first time I've ever even been close to a jointer that's on). Once I got the outfeed table aligned with the cutter blades correctly I thought all I really needed to do was push the piece of wood across and keep it pushed down on the outfeed table. Is that not right? I ended up with a curved edge that looks kind of like a boomerang. I'd sure appreciate any pointers you all might have. Thanks.
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When you say you got the outfeed table aligned with the cutter blades correctly, I want to confirm you mean you aligned it to be exactly level with the knives at their highest point of revolution. Assuming that's the case, the condition of your stock prior to jointing can have an effect on the outcome. Ideally, from end to end, your stock would be concave, meaning that when you place the edge on the infeed table, the ends would contact the table and the middle would not.
todd
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Let me add to Todd's comment that when hea says exactly... it really means exactly. IMO, your tolerance for error is around the thickness of a piece of paper. It is *the* most fussy setup in my shop.
Other thoughts:
You are taling multiple light cuts right? 1/32 or less.
Start concave side down, otherwise the workpiece will rock as it is fed. If you can't start concave side down, make a flat spot in the center of the piece, by taking a couple light passes just in the middle to remove the hump
-Steve
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Can be really bad technique, or it could be that your table are not flat. I would suggest getting someone who knows how to use to jointer to try it. If he has the same problems, then get a book on tuning your jointer. I was blessed by buying a used jointer that was perfect; tuning it sounds difficult. Good luck.
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You problem sounds like the typical convex sweep. If you just hold the board to the tables, regardless their length, this one doesn't resolve easily. Go to the concave side - sight the board - and make the first pass or two at each end, reducing them only before the final pass(es) which make it straight.
The convex is done by setting the board over the table with the end up, and reducing only the middle, but it's a bit less intuitive. Not to mention, that the concave side is the one with the sapwood you don't want anyway.
In short, sight, plan and proceed, jointing isn't just slapping a board on the tables, no matter how long the tables may be.
If your knives are just an RCH above the outfeed, they're where you want 'em.
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If you're jointing both sides to be parallel, joint the concave side, then straighten the convex side with a pass on the table saw. That should reduce the error to something a very light pass on the jointer can eliminate.
- Owen -
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I am not sure what you are getting at. I often have boards that cut only at the front and rear ends at first. They get flat easily enough without any special treatment.
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I'm getting at a procedure which _always_ works, regardless the table length.
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I had the same problem. I was disheartened, as this was a big expensive jointer. After almost giving up using it I got a friend, who's a professional woodworker, to come take a look. I assumed it was my technique. It took him about 45 minutes to get things adjusted just right, but since then the machine's been a dream to use. I do not think I could have gotten it set this well myself.
You need a friend!
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