Rockwell Model 315 Circular Saw Info


Can anyone tell me if there's a special tool needed to change the blade on a Rockwell 315 Circular Saw? It seems pretty easy, but as I spin the bolt with my wrench, the nut or mount on the other side of the blade spins.
It looks like you can get a wrenh on it, biut it would have to be very thin to fit between the blade and the motor. I don't see anything to keep the motor from spinning when you change the blade either.
If anyone has had one of these before, please let me know how I can easily chage the blade.
Thanks,
Brian
n3lka at hotmail.com
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Typically the wrench that comes with a TS is made from thin stamped steel. Use 2 wrenches, one on each side.
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Thanks for the reply Leon.
I bought this at the flea market about 5 years ago, and finally needed to replace the blade, and never had any of the accessories.
I was able to keep the shaft from turning by using a screwdriver on the cooling fan. Crude, but it worked.
Looks like a trip to the flea market to find a wrench that will fit and then grind it down to fit for the next time. For as much as I use it, I may not need to change the blade for another 5 years.
Leon wrote:

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Thanks for the reply Leon.
I bought this at the flea market about 5 years ago, and finally needed to replace the blade, and never had any of the accessories.
I was able to keep the shaft from turning by using a screwdriver on the cooling fan. Crude, but it worked.
Looks like a trip to the flea market to find a wrench that will fit and then grind it down to fit for the next time. For as much as I use it, I may not need to change the blade for another 5 years.
Leon wrote:

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If you have an air compressor and a 3/8" drive impact wrench with the correct size socket you can spin the nut off in an instant by simply holding the blade with your hand. For those not used to impact wrench behavior, wear a glove. Be sure to run the nut on finger tight first when installing. If you're on a budget, an impact like the Harbor Freight 37730 at under $30 will do fine. Porter-Cable is also marketing Chinese knockoffs of the Ingersol-Rand line that are decent but heavy, maybe twice the price. Good luck.
Joe
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snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

I can't be the only trade carpenter that grew up using these things. Tell me it ain't so... They used to be the standard for all us sidewinder users. I have burned up more than two or three of these.
Both wrenches were rarely around when needed, so the removal went thusly:
Drop the depth until the blade sticks about an inch. Pull the blade guard back and plant the teeth of the blade onto a scrap of wood. Engage wrench (5/8") on the spider nut and turn while holding the saw still. The spider nut is made to self tighten, and the hard brass washer it sits on has surely gathered its share of pitch and dust to make it difficult to get off. And most of the time these nuts were tightened with wild abandon "just to make sure".
If it will not loosen, spray some kind of break free agent on it, and try again. The worst thing you will have to do if it will not come loose easily is to hold the saw as above and tap on the end of the wrench to knock it loose. Lay on the saw to keep it still and the blade/arbor from rotating if you have to as the blade in the saw is finished anyway.
Clean all the lubricant off the brass washer, lube the threads on the spider nut, and snug it up to the new blade. That's it.
I used to carry a wrench in my nail bags to make a quick change if I hit a nail since in those days we all used steel blades! My old blade card still has about 30 of those worthless things on them... sharpened to about an inch smaller than when they started thanks to our friendly Belsaw guy.
Robert
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I think the problem here is that the blade will spin on the shaft and the nut is sorta frozen on the threads.
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