Robin lee, tech question

Gotta install question. Stock #00k50.90 and #00k50.95 - Door dampers.
What is the recommended install position of these?
I only have one shot at it as these are non adjustable :-(
I assume the install would be the damper in the recessed position to where the door should be positioned when closed? Or slightly back of that?
You might mention to who ever makes them to make them forward/reverse adjustable ;-)
SH - The "adjustable makes me less nervous" woodworker
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Slowhand wrote:

Not Rob but I've played with the Salice sales sample and it has it installed towards the hinge edge of the door. There's less of a tendency for the door to come slamming against the dampener hard with that location.

You must be talking about an inset door. With an overlay door you have an eighth of an inch between the back of the door and the face of the cabinet edge. I'd say that the dimension you want is door thickness plus an eighth. If you go more (a sixteenth) it won't hurt.
The best thing you can do is make a block with a lip on one edge and a drill pattern to match with the offset already compensated for. Then you just go door to door. Oh yeah, 'speriment with one first.

Ehh?
I don't know who makes the ones Lee Valley is selling but here at KeeterKitchen Y2K plus V we're installing the Salice. Blum also has them. Truth is, they all look like the ones Lee Valley is selling.
In other words, get the LV.
UA100
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Hmm. Never thought of that.

Yep, I forgot to mention they are inset. The face frame thickness is 3/4 , the doors are 5/8" heavy which would put the shelves an eighth or so back from where the door is shut. I had planned on mounting the dampner on the under side of the shelf. That is where I was curious on how far back to mount it.

Might just do that.

Slotted
Already did. And a big thankyou. SH
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Slowhand wrote:

Ahhhh. That makes sense. Here is what I suspect you'll find. They are slotted. At least all the hardware I see now-a-days is. Here's also what I think you'll find. You can mount them too far out in which case the door won't close all the way. I don't think you'll have a problem if you were to mount them too far in (by a sixteenth) because of the amount of plunge travel. In other words, I suspect the plunge travel will be something like 1/2" and if you were to come away with 7/16" all would be good.
At least that's what I'm arm chair injineering from here.
Please do a short write up on what happens/your impressions. I'm getting tired of hearing cabinet doors slam (Claire, age 10) and all and St. Soozan wants the dampeners and as I've alluded to before, they are slicker than dog snot.
UA100
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I couldn't figure out what you were talking about with the term Salice. I finally opened one of the packages last night and there was a Salice dampner in there. How does LV do it? ;-)
I did a mock up last night and gotter figgerd out. I won't bloviate here but those dampners work wonders! SH - The "and I thought sliced bread was cool" woodworker

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SH:

As an aside, the European hinge (Blum/Grass, etal) was invented by Salice.

Whadda I say? Slicker than dog snot they are.
UA100
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<snip>

Pictures, please, Slowhand. Some of use eavesdroppers are visual learners. If we learn at all, that is.
Patriarch
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Heh, heh. Pics coming soon. The project is a couple of medicine cabinets made from mdf. Just starting to paint them now finally. I'll get extreme closeups of the salice dampner too. SH

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Hi -
Looks like I got to this too late... glad they worked for you.
Anyone with small kids (or big ones, for that matter) should have one of these on the cereal cupboard door....
Cheers -
Rob
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Shhh, Keith's wife might be listening ;-) SH
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