Riser blocks or not?

I am in the market for a bandsaw. I am looking at the 14 models like the Grizzlys, Jets & Deltas with riser blocks mainly because I need to cut some back splats for dining chairs that are 8 wide so they will effectively be resawed in order to get the correct curve. Anyway, I have also looked at saws like the Jet 14DXPRO which is a 14 with 12 or so resaw and no riser blocks.
Ive read this & that about riser blocks, flexing etc. Do the 14" saws with riser blocks really flex that much to affect performance? I dont expect to do tremendous amounts of resawing, and (Leon) I'd love have a Laguna, but it is simply not possible financially right now.
Thoughts? Cheers
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The riser block in my old 14" Delta/Milwaukee is a pretty substantial chunk of cast iron. I can't imagine it flexing any.
If there is any flex, it would be in the arm itself. I don't believe that raising the arm by 6" with a riser block would cause the arm to flex any more.
I've cut everything up to 2" or thicker steel plate with that saw, and flex has never been a problem. And you do dial in a lot of tension when cutting that sort of thing.
Buy the riser block and be done with it. Don't even think of the option of swapping it in only when you need the extra height.
John Martin
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I have the Jet 14" with a riser block, some roller guides, and some great WoodSlicer blades from Highland Hardware. The saw will take anything I throw at it without any flex that I am aware of.
Having said that I spent a fair amount of time tuning the settings. Get yourself some books too: Duginske, Engler, and Bird have some good tips.
Best of luck!
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On 2/2/2010 2:40 PM, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

I have a Delta 14" with riser blocks. Wouldn't have it any other way. Got for it.
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wrote:

That's great if you need them. I looked the price up today--$149.99 (list $199), then you need 105" blades--harder to find, I think than their standard 93.5". I'm not sure how much sense it makes for a .5-.75 hp saw--but I'm no expert either.

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[...snip...]

Hmm, if you are willing to mail order you can get just about any size blade. Also they can be made to order for a reasonable price.
Also, 105" is a pretty commonly available size, albeit maybe not found in local hardware stores.
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Yes, my statement was based on my trip to Lowes today-- 93.5" blades yes, 105" blades no. This thread made me consider the riser block, but I didn't buy my band saw for any reasons which will require extra height..the $149 price of the riser block cinched it for me. I have other tools I'd rather throw money at now! ; )
Bill
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If at some point you do go for the riser, find an industrial tool supply place. They don't carry premade blades. Tell them what you want and they will make it while you wait. The places I go carry Sterrett or Doall. Both very high quality.
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I would add that my 18" Jet uses a 133" blade which isn't commonly available. I found a couple of industrial supply places that will make the blades from blade stock. Some tooth patters are a little cheaper than retail pre-mades. Usually 2-3 day service, sometimes overnight.
RonB
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On 2/3/2010 12:05 AM, Bill wrote:

There's your answer then ... if you buy your band saw blades at Lowes, you don't need a riser block. :)
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Delta is it - I got the riser for bowls and such.
The cost includes a large block that is machined and a new blade protection riser that slides up and down adjusting the cut height. A massive machined bar is part of it.
Ordering it as such might have been an additive hit for a larger motor.
No idea really on your cost. Just my saw.
Martin
Bill wrote:

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wrote:

Thanks - which Delta?
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I have the riser block on my Jet 14". I got it when they were offering some promotion, so it was like $99 or such. I can't see any issues with it in place other than it's a bit harder to reach the blade tensioning rod at the top. I just made a lever to slip over the knob -- there are all kinds of nifty ways to set the tension these days.
I order my blades -- BC Saw in Canada. Recommended by Michael Fortune. I find his advice very practical and very simple. Here's a link http://www.furnituresociety.org/furn/docs/mfortuneBandsaw_Complete.pdf
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Long time ago I bought it - It might have a number. It has a sister saw that cuts metal.
If you get one, it sits on a metal stand and the table is about right for me. I have a 1 HP motor on mine and keep the riser on at all times.
http://www.cpowoodworking.com/band_saws /
Consider the optional pulley on the side for slower speeds or lower surface speed.
I use mine to resaw but wish I had a 2" wide blade or at least 1" for that function.
Bowls need narrower blades so they can turn.
Martin
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wrote:

I'd recommend them.. shop around and you'll find a deal.. I put the grizzly riser kit on my Ridgid 14" and it works great..
Besides resawing, having that extra 6" also adds open area for light and clearance for add-on tables and jigs..
I've cut hundreds of bowl blanks on it, mostly green wood, and no more flex than without the lift..
Also remember that it's not just an iron block, it's also replacement blade guards and the bar that your upper guides mount on..
See if you have a saw shop in your area... I have all my blades made up at the shop, so it's no problem getting whatever size you want.. I think it's about a dollar more for 105" than 93" in our local shop..
mac
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wrote:
My first bandsaw was a new Grizzly sold it before I move and bought a near new Delta. Both machine alignment were OK before I installed the raisers. After installing the riser on the Grizzly, It's impossible to align the coplanar parallel to the table with blade ridding on both tires' crown. Grizzly send me a new raiser together the lower wheel. I cannot remember which wheels, top or bottom I added shims to get the coplanar correct and parallel to the tablet. It was never the same after I installed the raiser. The same happen to my next near new Delta. Both Delta and Grizzly raisers were solidly manufacture, but the Grizzly was more sloppy even with the dowel pin. For better fitting I had to remove the excessive paint on either the top or bottom mating surfaces. On the Delta, I added shims on the top wheel and later removed it, added shims on the lower wheel to bring the wheel outward for alignment. I continue doing it every time I start a new project or when I changed the saw blade, with spare shims hanging on the Delta bandsaw. I have since sold the Delta ending my woodworking pleasure. Given the choice again, I will buy another near new or new Delta made in the good old USA!

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I have a Grizzly G0555 with the riser. Absolutely no problems. I usually order 105" Timberwolf blades but Sears carries a 105" cheapie if you're so inclined. Olsen also makes a good 105".
Vic
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I am in the market for a bandsaw. I am looking at the 14 models like the Grizzlys, Jets & Deltas with riser blocks mainly because I need to cut some back splats for dining chairs that are 8 wide so they will effectively be resawed in order to get the correct curve. Anyway, I have also looked at saws like the Jet 14DXPRO which is a 14 with 12 or so resaw and no riser blocks.
Ive read this & that about riser blocks, flexing etc. Do the 14" saws with riser blocks really flex that much to affect performance? I dont expect to do tremendous amounts of resawing, and (Leon) I'd love have a Laguna, but it is simply not possible financially right now.
Thoughts? Cheers
Get the block, never look back.
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