Ripping woes

[SonomaProducts.com]

What do I need to start /stop

This is a problem with the equipment if you are keeping the boad against the fence during the cut. Blade is flexing or more likely trunion\motor mount is flexing because of something loose, bad\weak design, worn bearing, etc.

Physics dictates that if you keep the board against the fence not much else matters to get a straight cut. Not necessarily parallel to the edge but at least straight.

Something is flexing\moving and the distance between the blade and fence is changing through the span of the cut.

[Leon]

FWIW you do actually want the fence parallel to the blade. Having said that make that adjustment AFTER making the slot parallel to the blade. If the fence is made parallel to the blade before making the slot parallel to the blade this will all be lost after making the slot parallel to the blade. Yuo want the miter gauge to slide parallel to the blade also. Adjusting the slot in most all cases throws off a previous fence adjustment.

[Pat Barber]

All the suggestions you will get forget to ask the one question:

What table saw are we talking about ? With what fence ?

It sounds like a machine setup issue but knowing what saw, makes a world of difference in the answer(s).

[Keith Nuttle]

There are some table saws that you must first make the blade parallel to the slot. The principal part of these saws is the cast iron table. The slots are machined in and are not adjustable.

With these saws both fence and the blade must be parallel to the slot.

Once every thing is parallel, the miter gauge can be squared by putting into the slot and pushing it against the edge of the table.

[Doug Miller]

[e-mail] wrote in news: [e-mail]:

No, that's not the problem. It [apparently] happens every time, including when he cuts plywood, which clearly points to a problem either with setup and alignment, or with technique. Surely not *all* of the wood that he rips is stressed in the same manner and orientation!

[ts]

Pat Barber wrote in news:kv35g8$89j$ [e-mail]:

It's a Delta contractors saw (circa 1992) with a shop fox (cheap upgrade) fence. I have a buddy coming over tonight so I'll get him to try it. I've also thought about the blade -- it's a Forrestt. I believe I've tried the Delta supplied blade with the same results.

I like the flex idea since the saw is old. Don't they last forever :). Maybe it's time i can talk to my SO into a Sawstop.

4 close misses - they were small accidents. although with the last one immeadiate care did have to call the surgeon in to suture my thumb by the nail and nail bed. The tech, about my son's age, said "you're probably going to be like my dad and go back home and continue working. Aren't you?" :)

[hubops]

Sorry - I can't see this as the problem when ripping 2 inch solid .. or plywood .. Seems like a blade/fence issue. jt

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[Larry Blanchard]

I've seen some pretty rough cast iron table edges :-). Perhaps the old cut a board and flip one half over trick might work better in those cases.

And I always do the squaring process by squaring the blade to the slot, and then the fence to the slot. Voila! - the blade is parallel to the fence.

But if you tend to use either slot as seems best, be sure the slots are parallel to each other. DAMHIKT.

[Keith Nuttle]

It works on my 1969 10 inch Craftsman table saw.

I do all of my high tech alignment witt a 10 inch solid triangle and the saws cast iron table. The triangle was about $10 and checked for accuracy using the table slots.

[Bill]

Did you deduce anything that helps make a 5th or 6th "small accident" seem unlikely? I'm on the side that is hoping you did (like everyone else here, I believe).

Bill

[none]

Boooo! Hisss!

[Leon]

:-)

[Pat Barber]

Contractor saw are famous for getting knocked out of alignment.

They can also be a stone cold bitch to get back in alignment.

Are you familiar with the process of setting up the alignment ?

Here is a thread on the subject:

and

which is a excellent way to learn how with Jerry Cole who is the guy who has been selling the Dooby table saw jig for years at woodworking shows.

[Mike M]

I wouldn't rule out a bad blade or bad arbor bearings. I'd start with a good blade and go from there.

Mike M

[Doug Miller]

Mike M wrote in news: [e-mail]:

Maybe so... but it sounds like an alignment issue to me. The first steps I'd take, in order, are:

1. Ensure the miter slot is parallel to the blade.
2. Ensure the fence is parallel to the miter slot.
3. Ensure the splitter is parallel to, and centered on, the blade.

If the problem still exists, then I'd look next at the blade, then at the arbor bearings (as indicated by axial runout on the blade).

Another thing worth looking at, perhaps: if this is a thin-kerf blade, maybe the splitter is thicker than the kerf, and is pulling the wood to one side? The wood should not (quite) touch the splitter on a rip cut.

[clare]

Check out Dave Woolands tips at the "saw shop".

This one in particular:

When Dave sets up a saw, it is PERFECT. He can make even a rough saw work very well (as long as it's not worn out)

[Pat Barber]

A small correction...that is a "Dubby Jig" not a "Dooby Jig".

and a suggestion for a alignment tool.

Look at this product:

and his suggestions:

[ts]

ts wrote in news:XnsA222C02199C14dontenenthinkaboutit@69.16.179.20:

An update -- I got a dial indicator. The blade is .02 out of parallel with the mitre slot back side is further out. Theortically if I adjust the fence to be almost parallel to the blade rip cuts should be ok, at least in my thinking. I only rip on the tablesaw, crosscuts are done on my sliding miter saw.

I think trying to get the blade parallel with the slot would be a real pain.

[Keith Nuttle]

I do not quite understand what you found. You say the blade is 0.02 ??Inches?? out of parallel with the miter slot. Then you say it is further out with the ??Backside??

For discussion I define the Front the side, as the side of the blade closes to you when you look at the thin side of the blade. Back side the one furthest away from you.

If it is parallel the front side of the blade and the back side should be the same distance from the mitre slot. As I read what you have written there is a difference of 0.02??inches?? between the front and the back.

__________________________________________________________ Slot

Back of blade __________________________ front of blade

Blade

Your comment about the backside is confusing.

To do it accurately an absolutely flat disk should be attached as a blade on the arbor. In this way the set of the teeth will not confuse the measurements.

[dadiOH]

It certainly would be a good thing to correct but I don't think 1/50 out is the cause of your problem.