Using a left tilt saw, when ripping long miter cuts ( 36" ) do you use the
fence on the left of the blade or the right and why?
I find that when I use the fence on the right I have a hard time keeping the
stock against the fence, even with hold downs and push sticks it seems that
the stock wants to ride up the tilted blade.
I have not tried it with the fence on the left - for some reason it just
doesn't look safe to me and I like my fingers.
Considering getting a good large chamfer bit that will do a 45 miter on 4/4
Any thoughts on that?
There are 10 kinds of people - those who understand binary and those who
I agree with Tom, check your alignment especially if you have a
contractor saw. They are notorious for the blade shifting out of
parallel when beveled.
Don't go on the left, if the piece starts to lif it will get wedged
and could become a projectile. My saw tilts right so I DO cut with
the fence on the left when beveling.
That's why I felt uncomfortable - it looked like an accident waiting to
happen. I have always followed the rule that if I feel uncomfortable about a
specific cut, I just don't do it. There's always another way.
The saw is an old ( circa 1960 ) craftsman contractor saw, back when they
made them out of real metal not sheet goods. I'd forgotten about rechecking
for parallel after tilting the blade. I know it's fine when vertical but
it's so rare that I have to tilt the blade for a cut that I haven't checked
it in a while.
Any thoughts on using a chamfer bit for the same task?
Vic Baron wrote:
> Using a left tilt saw, when ripping long miter cuts ( 36" ) do you
> fence on the left of the blade or the right and why?
> I find that when I use the fence on the right I have a hard time
> stock against the fence, even with hold downs and push sticks it
> the stock wants to ride up the tilted blade.
Have you tried using a feather board locked in a miter gage slot to
keep the stock against the fence?
This is in addition to a hold down.
Another suggestion would be to use the "Board Buddy" product (Tapered
plastic spring loaded rollers).
Assuming you are really talking about cutting bevel cuts rather than miter
cuts, your safer bet is to have the fence on the right side of the left tilt
blade when the blade is tilted.
If the wood climbs up on the blade but is not trapped it has little chance
of coming back at you with any force. Your real concern as you have
mentioned is when a piece of wood becomes trapped between the blade and a
If the wood is not perfectly flat or straight making a bevel cut is more
difficult. A feather board even with, but not past the very front of the
cutting edge of the blade will help, but never put the feather board farther
back than the front of the blade where it comes up from the table surface.
Farther back increases the chance of a kick back.
Use a longer, shoe-type push _board_ that sits on top of the
instead of a stick that just holds down the trailing end. Run a piece
friction tape along the bottom to prevent sideways slipping.
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