Ripping Mahogany and Burn, and a Cedar question

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I'm having a bad time with burn marks on some mahogany I'm ripping. The blade's clean, but possibly dull. I have a new blade ready to use, but... well, what else can I do to avoid burning?
Also, I'm installing some oak baseboard in a bedroom. I'm thinking of ripping a 1" high dado and laying in a 1" wide strip of aromatic cedar, which might make the room smell nicer. I know, cedar's best used in closets and armoires, but has anyone tried doing this in a bedroom?
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On Wed, 7 Apr 2010 17:44:29 -0700 (PDT), BrianSiano

Standard stuff. Put on the new blade. Make sure that it's properly parallel to the miter slot and that the arbor is clean of junk in case the blade is wobbling slightly. Add the nitre. Make sure it's exactly perpendicular to the blade.
Do a test cut with some waste mahogany (if you have some), if not then some other type of wood, pine will be fine. See if it cuts without burning. If it does burn, try different feed rates. If that solves the problem, then you're going to have to try some different feed rates with the mahogany since it has a different density.
Also, you haven't indicated what type of saw you have or its horsepower. There's the possibility that your saw might be underpowered for cutting. You also didn't indicate if this burn problem is new or has always happened. All these things need to be considered.
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"BrianSiano" wrote:

---------------------------------- High quality Honduras mahogany deserves a high quality blade which you WON'T find in the bargain bin of your local DIY.
A good 24T ripping blade is at least $50-$60 these days.
I had a Freud that worked well for me.
Make sure that blade is parallel to the miter slots in the saw table.
How large is the motor driving the blade(Should be at least 1-1/2HP) and what is the estimated RPM of the blade?
Should be in the order of 3,600 RPM maximum, 3,300-3,400 preferred.
Have fun.
Lew
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In addition to the blade being parallel to the miter slot the fence must be parallel to the blade too. Art
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On 04/07/2010 09:55 PM, Artemus wrote:

While having the blade parallel to the miter slots is obviously a good idea, it's actually irrelevant in the context of ripping. So yes, after you've gone off and adjusted your blade so it's perfectly parallel to the miter slots and found that it did nothing to fix your ripping problems, by all means please do adjust your fence perfectly parallel to the blade. :-)
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On 4/7/2010 7:44 PM, BrianSiano wrote:

FWIW, I've had the same problem lately with African Mahogany.
I finally started rough cutting, then making smaller cuts to size.
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Richard Lamb
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"cavelamb" wrote:

----------------------
African Mahogany is Mahogany in name only.
If it's not Honduras Mahogany, it simply isn't Mahogany.
Like the Philippine Mahogany plywood they try to pass off as something other than the junk it is.
Lew
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On 4/7/2010 11:01 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:

Maybe so.
But it matched color well, has "interesting" grain patterns, and came out looking great.
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~capri26/c26-mods.htm#s-shelf
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Richard Lamb
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Actually in botanical terms there is a true african mahogany depending on your specific definition. There are also a few other types sold as african mahogany that are not of the same family.
Family meliaceae, genus swietinia is the Cuban and Honduran type and family meliaceae, genus khaya is the african type. So there are true african mahogany types. Some types that look the same like sapele are also called\sold as african mahogany but are not botanically in the same family.
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My previous post:

----------------------------------- "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:

------------------------------------- When push comes to shove and it's time to replank that Chris of your dreams, don't think you will use African Mahogany.
Lew
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On 04/09/2010 02:02 AM, Lew Hodgett wrote:

Nope. There is no substitute for Honduras Mohagany.
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Well... that is a true statement after saying Honduran Mohag is a substitute for Cuban.
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SonomaProducts.com wrote:

:)
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dadiOH
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I fell in love with African Mohag after seeing Darrel Peart's Greene & Greene repros and derivations. I took a class from him and worked with some of it then and it is really nice.
When I do build my dream boat I will likely consider African Mohag depending on what's available AND after some research to be sure African has the same properties as it relates to water resistance. I don't currently have any knowledge if it is considered as good for marine applications as the classic but it is beautiful stuff.
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"SonomaProducts.com" wrote:

-------------------------------------------- I'm certain you can build some very nice furniture using African Mahogany.
-------------------------------------------

------------------------------------- Take about a glutton for punishment.<G>
Takes a special person to even own and maintain a "woodie"; however, building one from scratch??????????????????????
Wow!!!
Lew
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I have started some of the research and have some plans pulled from the Chris Craft Museum of the model I want to build. So I have basic dimensions and critical cross sections. I do not have any sort of knowledge of the structural design yet but I figure I can find more detailed plans of similar boats and develop details for my project.
This is a long-term plan. My brother and I will retire together to some acreage and one requirement is a boat building dedicated to this project, in addition to my normal shop space. I love to build multiples of things because I enjoy the fixtures as much or maybe even more than the finished article, so a secondary plan is to also sell completed hulls once I have all the forms and techniques down pat.
Gotta dream.

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"SonomaProducts.com" wrote:

------------------------------------------- That's what it's all about.
Lew
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On Fri, 9 Apr 2010 00:02:46 -0700, the infamous "Lew Hodgett"

Oh, sure. African mahogany, 3 hand-smeared coats of RBS, and poly drizzled over the top. Who could ask for more? <thud>
-- Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature's peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop away from you like the leaves of Autumn. -- John Muir
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I often have burn marks so I rip slightly oversized and then make one light pass over jointer.
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BrianSiano wrote:

1. Assure fence is parallel to blade.
2. Assure that the edges of the wood riding on the table and against the fence are perpendicular to each other.
3. Assure the stock isn't bowed.
4. Assure that the kerf isn't closing as you cut.
5. Sharp blade, steady feed (don't pause) _____________

No, but I wouldn't. Eastern red cedar - aromatic cedar - loses its odor after a while. The smell can be renewed by sanding to a fresh surface or applying cedar oil. Even if it didn't lose the odor I don't think the amount you are proposing would do much. If you want the bedroom to smell good, burn incense or buy the wife/girl friend some expensive perfume. The latter could have additional benefits :)
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dadiOH
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