Rigid TS3650 squareing rip fence to table

I just bought a good quality square and discovered my rip fence is not exactly square with respect to the table. It is square to the miter slots.
I looked through my manual but did not find how to square the fence to the table just the miter slots. Am I heading for shimming?
Just looking for suggestions.
Thanks
keith
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I don't have this saw, my experience might help.
I have the Delta TS350 and the fence has no adjustment for squaring it to the table. But what I did was to shim the nylon glides. The fence rests on two nylon disks that slide on the fence guide tube. I bought longer screws for the nylon disks and shimmed under one. It's perfect now.
Mike
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Keith wrote:

Are you saying that if you stand the square up vertically on the table, the vertical edge is not parallel to the fence? Or are you saying that if you lay the square horizontially along the fence, the edge of the square is not parallel to the edge of the table. If it's the first, you can probably loosen the bolts that attach the fence to the lock-down mechanism and adjust it. If it's the second, don't worry about it. The important thing is to have both the blade and the fence parallel to the miter slots.
DonkeyHody "Beware the hobby that eats." - Benjamin Franklin
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You want the blade and fence to be parallel to the mitre slots. Do not worry about the edges of the table.
Dave Paine

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wrote in message Exxxxxactly!!. Your (my) saw has the capability to alter the blade's parallelism. The arbor is mounted on cast iron trunnions. Each trunnion has two bolts securing it to the table. Loosen the two closest to the operator just a little and the two closest to the motor a bit more. Between these last two screws you will see a lever held by a bolt which also needs to be loosened just a little. Moving this lever will skew the corresponding trunnion. Measure from the same tooth to the miter slot with that tooth positioned toward the front of the saw and then from the back (motor side). I have mine adjusted so that the outfeed side of the blade is 1/32" closer to the left miter slot so that there's no drag as the wood exits the blade. Works better for me than having them both the same. Others may disagree. Here's a link to the operator's manual. http://www.ridgid.com/CatalogDocs/TS3650_6498_eng.pdf
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Squaring to Miter slots is the way to go for blade and fence.
You are OK and good to go (unless blade is not square (parallel to miter slot).

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If you're talking about square vertically to the table, then you should be able to shim under the 4 bolts that you loosen to adjust to make the fence parallel. I would check for square along the whole length of the fence to make sure the problem isn't related to the table not being flat or fence twisted.
-Leuf
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I finally have a little time every day to work around the shop. I set some project goals but also, looking at safety, I wanted to be sure that equipment is good order.
I've been ripping some stock and just decided to check the fence and that's how I noticed the issue. I'd like to shim just to get everything square.
The fence has been squared to the miter slots and with respect to the blad so that is OK,
Thanks for the idea. I'll get some shimming washers.
Keith
Leuf wrote:

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Hi Keith,
This is one of those alignments that is often overlooked, contributing to the false idea that a table saw can't be used for accurate joinery. It is definitely worth your while to get it corrected.
Ed Bennett snipped-for-privacy@ts-aligner.com http://www.ts-aligner.com
Keith wrote:

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