I was considering getting a Rigid bandsaw until I read some of the reviews on the HD web site. I like the looks of the saw, like the price and I already have a table saw and jointer, which I am very pleased with. Is this saw really as bad as some have suggested?
I've got the 14" model I picked up about 2 months ago. I've used it about 3-4 times now and have no issues other than dust collection with it. With the right blade tension, it tracks almost perfectly straight, table is easy to adjust level, blade changeout is decent (except for that plastic guard on the left being awkward). If you can get it at a reasonable price, pick up a few blades extra and run w/ it!!!
If you're not in an overwhelming hurry, I've got a Ridgid 14" sitting here in its box, plus a Steel City 16" standing nearby. I need to assemble both, but can't work in the shop right now--temps still in the high 80s, low 90s, no air, age creeping up along with the waistline, etc. I figure to get them done some time towards the end of the month (nose surgery late next week is probably going to eat 2-3 days, and my schedule is already too damned tight for this week and early next). Figure the 26th or so.
I've had the BS1400 for a few years.. motivation to choose Ridgid was typical, my wife got my a HD credit card and it was the only brand that they had a 14" BS in..
Set up was pretty easy and maybe I got their one good machine, but I had no issues with tracking, wobble, etc.. I use my miter fence from the table saw to cut pen blanks and other small stuff and am surprised how straight and square it cuts... I really didn't buy the saw for precision cuts..
It's been very good to me, though I do abuse it a bit... when cutting bowl blanks round and things like that, I have to keep reminding myself that it's only 3/4 hp and to SLOW DOWN.. not a bad thing, IMO..
Changes I've made: Cool blocks... great investment, IMHO.. been using the same ones for maybe 2 years and they're still "cool"...
riser kit... least expensive was from Grizzly... for the money saved, I could care less if the block is green.. Not only gives you more cutting clearance, but in my case more visibility and light... also, you can play with table tops and jigs without worrying about cutting clearance.. (I learned here in the rec that Griz, Ridgid and others are the same saw)
Link belt... made it MUCH quieter and allows more fine tuning of belt tension...
Dust collection: Took out the little mickey mouse port and taped the opening over... Cut a 4" hole in the lower door and put a DC on it.. MUCH BETTER! I had a Y on it for a while with a 2nd hose under the table near the blade guard, but the results weren't worth the hassle, IMHO..
I have gotten in the habit of taking the belt guard off every few months and using the DC to suck the shavings out of that area... Sawdust tends to accumulate between the top of the stand and the belts... Probably not something that will hurt anything, but I have this image in my head of the BS bursting into flames... Future plans for a hinged door or something to make this task easier.. Thinking about that, I don't think it's putting much crap there since I did the
4" port in the door...mac
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I have the older version, all grey in color. My saw was exactly what I could afford at the time. The fact that I was to able purchase it for $275 on sale also helped. I have upgraded mine same as mac davis with link belt & cool blocks. I honestly don't see any reason for trading it up on a better brand/ model. I have built some boats and lots of furniture with it and as long as I don't push it too hard it performs well. I wouldn't want to resaw thick (4">) hardwood with it though. Anyone built a cabinet base for their Rigid? My Rigid jointer has also performed very well and I believe I have gotten more than I paid for with both tools.
Good points! I realized after reading your post that until I got my BS, I shied away from Ridgid tools and borg power tools in general.. Looking around my shop now, I realize that my latest 2 additions are a table saw and planer, both Ridgid..
mac
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Ridgid is alright but if I wa not in a hurry or dire need I wuld look for some good old american iron being sold from an out of business shop or old wood workers estate. The biggest problems with the Ridgid BS is the lightweight castings used onthe upper end, its easy to spring out of shape by trying to tension the blade sufficiently, and then the motor is working hard too as its over rated for what it actually is in horsepower..........Put an amp meter on it when cutting something like 1" pine and its maxing out the amperage draw rating of the motor as its basically border line in its application. Even the blade guides leave a lot to be desired. I would save or hold on to my $ $$$ and start looking for that long lost piece of american iron. However if yur satisfied with a 1/4" wide blade and cutting thin materials I suppose it will do just fine. At a minimum I wuld buy a JET and even then its not really near as good as an old American made piece that you may find. I picked up an Oliver 24" bandsaw w/3 phase motor which I replaced with a single phase 220 motor, and had right at $400 in it counting the motor I used and new tires ( i installed polyurethane tires in place of rubber).............All 110% castiron and made to run 24/7
I can't agree with the statement on 1" pine. I have used mine on 3 and
4 inchred oak for furniture parts as well as cutting bowl disks from dry blanks in various woods.
Ridgid works for me.. especially since at the time of purchase, my wife had gotten me a HD credit card with 10% off 1st purchase and 1 year no interest or payments on purchase over $300.. ;-]
After trying blades from 1/4" to 3/4", I've found that a 3/8" blade works best for me and what I do..
Sure, it's not a Luguna, but it was only $325... I cut bowl blanks out of green wood up to 10" thick, so I doubt that 1" pine is a problem.... I was cutting goblet blanks out of 12" sections of 3" thick mahogany last week and was happy with the cuts... just can't be in a hurry..
I'm trying to picture where I'd fit a 24" BS in my shop... probably have to put it outside and that would be a pita... lol
mac
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So can I assume you actually performed a amperage draw test on the saw under various conditions as well as temp rise on the motor......... I doubt it...........Your just T'd cause you got such a piss poor saw barely over what a Harbor Freight saw would equate to.
Wow.. did they call you "Mr. Sun Beam" in school?
Sure, I'd set up the saw in my carport with the rest of the big tools if I got it free.. but tools just don't seem to fall out of the sky for me..
But I'd still keep the Ridgid in the shop for the everyday stuff that I bought it for.. And I'll also keep trying to answer the questions people post instead of telling them how stupid they are for asking about a specific tool..
Sorry if my Karma ran over your Dogma..
mac
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On Oct 8, 9:12 am, Duff wrote: blade changeout is decent
I have the same bs, and the comment about the plastic guard made be chuckle - I went thru the same thing till I read a post (on here I think) that the guard can be simply turned back to front - that way you never have to take it off! Far as I can see, it presents no safety issue, and makes blade changes a breeze.
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