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Ridgid, Grizzly, or other 6" Jointer?

Supermax are the same folks who started Performax with the accessory that mounted on a RAS. Nice folks, always responsive.

Reply to
dadiOH
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HUH! and no I know! I did notice that Jet is really getting onto this type machinery and even some of their sanders closely resemble the SuperMax.

Oh BTY I was not pointing fingers at you about the difficulty you were having with the slides or indicate that you were incapable of figuring things out. Initially I had problems with the up/down thing too. BUT I also had problems with pronouncing certain words until I learned and I did not request that the words be spelled differently so that I could say them. ;~) My comments were aimed more at those that do not do any woodworking and try to tell us the best way to do so.

Reply to
Leon

You suck.

Reply to
J. Clarke

Wholly crap, that's a great price. No wonder they are hurting.. They halved, their half price..... :-O That's your gain.

I would have bought the second one, come back and given it to a friend for that price.

Reply to
woodchucker

NP. They make sense once one knows about it.

Those who can, do; those who can't, teach :)

Reply to
dadiOH

i know

wait chaos has already ensued you are too late

Reply to
Electric Comet

i would not buy grizzly and i have exactly one of them and like jet they just have not put enough effort into the quality

Reply to
Electric Comet

Champagne on a beer budget?

Reply to
Leon

A jointer makes surfaces flat, planer makes them parallel and the required thickness and a drum sander makes them smooth. Confusing their purpose is common, but doesn't always work. Trying to get wood to a required thickness with parallel faces with a jointer or sander is fraught with disappointment.

If you are using rough cut lumber, re-using, re-purposing lumber, making wood from firewood and other such things, you need a jointer and a planer. I would not but either unless they had segmented, spiral cutter heads. If you can't afford that, save your pennies.

If you use a planer (hopefully with a segmented spiral cutter head) you probably need a jointer (hopefully with a segmented spiral cutter head) Tis not easy to build fine furniture w/o a planer, as store bought lumber is not always the correct thickness for proper esthetics, among other things.

Jointing an edge is a luxury with a jointer, but can be done ok with a TS. A Flat face, a requirement for use with a planer, is done on a jointer. Generally speaking, 6" wide is enough, as (generally speaking) wide boards should be made up of *less* than 6" wide pieces.

Reply to
Jack

You get about zero tear out with spiral cutter head, but that is only one of the advantages. Others are: no setup (always level knives). Stay sharp 4 times longer (4 edges instead of one) Small chips (don't clog dust collector pipes, quiet as a mouse (you can plane wide tiger maple in your basement, late at night, in your underwear, and not wake the neighbors. I would not buy a planer or jointer without the spiral, segmented cutters.

Reply to
Jack

True for the most part but with a sled, not just a panel so much as a reinforced panel that remains flat, you can flatten a surface on a planer, flip and make the opposite surface parallel with the other.

This is not an easy task and a jointer would better suited, but in a pinch... The drum sander essentially works the same as a planer and can do that of a planer but typically slower and with a smoother result.

Reply to
Leon

On 02/18/2016 11:34 AM, Jack wrote: ...

...

The spiral segmented head has some advantages, granted, but we survived just fine without for 100 year or so before they were available, so the advice to do without unless is _way_ over the top imo. It's far more useful to go get some work done than it is to wait for the ultimate, most expensive solution.

Reply to
dpb

I've used my drum sander for that purpose (and others) with at least 1000 brd.ft. of lumber. I have never been disappointed.

Reply to
dadiOH

Isn't that the truth. I have seen so many (especially hobbyists) paralyze themselves by waiting for a product that will make up for their lack of ski lls. Sometimes it isn't even a more expensive solution, just the simple pr omise that a new tool is coming out. With so many solutions out there for almost any woodworking challenge, unless you spot a tool that will be a bac kbone of your construction technique there isn't much of a reason to wait on a new product.

This is even more true when you stop and consider how many actual hours of usage said tool will face in a year's worth of work. To me it is almost alw ays better to find an immediate solution and get to work on the product.

Robert

Reply to
nailshooter41

I agree if you are talking about a $600 Festool shop vac vs a $100 Ridged. I don't agree if you are talking about a jointer or a planer. The difference is not slight, it is major, and the results are not the same. And, you don't have to buy the most expensive one, you can buy Grizzly instead. In other words, buy a ridged shop vac for $100 and use the $400-500 savings from Festool to step up to a helical segmented planer/jointer.

As far as survival, we survived lots of stuff. We could always use a hand plane if survival was the issue. If you are buying, might as well get a tool that has major advantages. If you already own a lessor tool (I own an archaic jointer) no need to run out and buy a new one, but once you use a segmented cutter head, anything less is an aggravation. My jointer is 60 years old, so keep in mind for home workshop use, these things will be in use a LONG time, so why buy aggravation.

Reply to
Jack

...

That's not the same argument as not buying anything unless...

Mine is also (old Rockwell Delta 8") and I've used ones with both helical solid knives and the segmented heads as well and just don't see _that_ much difference, sorry. In fact, the segmented heads I've seen/used left telltale marks behind...easy enough to remove, sure, but...

Reply to
dpb

How many brd.ft of 1 1/8" or 5/4" or 1/2" stock have you made with your sander? Not much I imagine. How long would it take you to sand a 2x6x8 to 1 1/8" thickness?

Also, flattening twisted stock on a drum sander or a planer is a royal pia, which is why jointers exist. Can you sand a hunk of black walnut firewood flat? Simple with a jointer. If you don't do any of this stuff, maybe a jointer/planer is not needed. If you do, then a drum sander may be useful at some point, but it is not the right tool for this stuff.

Reply to
Jack

...

...

The same argument could be made against the purchase of the Ridgid vis a vis the Festool; they're far superior in many ways as well... :)

But, I hadn't realized the price differential had come down to that level; just looked up a couple. Thought was still closer to 2X that...

Still I'd never tell somebody they _had_ to spend that extra $400-500 or the rest was a mistake.

Reply to
dpb

Just as common is a hobbyists buying the first cheap tool they see and ending up replacing it with one that does the job, paying twice, or quitting because their tools weren't up to the task. At any rate, the tool is a helical spiral cutter head. Grizzly makes cheap ones, or you can splurge and spend a ton on an industrial high dollar one. If you are hard up for cash, get the grizzly rather than wait for the industrial one.

In this case, it's not waiting for a new product, spiral cutter heads have been around a long time.

Often true, but in a planer/jointer, if buying one, you probably will be using it a lot for many years. Much better to save up a few dollars and buy one that does the job really well than buy a so-so one that you will be stuck with for 40 years. If you are not going to use it long enough, or often enough to justify the extra cost, you probably should re-think buying it to begin with. Jointers and planers are not the first tool woodworkers (particularly hobbyist) buy.

My recommendation is not to go Harbor Freight on this purchase, this is not a throwaway purchase like a HF air stapler, and no need to sell the wife and kids and go Festool, but at least go spiral, you will be happy you did.

Reply to
Jack

So you can joint against the grain, wild grain, knots, even plywood with zero tear out? You spend zero time setting your knives for a perfect cut? You don't risk going deaf with out wearing ear muffs when face jointing/planing a hard chunk of tiger maple? You don't have to sharpen your blades 4 times more often than with segmented knives, (which are simply replaced with no touchy set up)

BTW, I've read that segmented knives leave knife marks, but I don't see them. My long blade jointer doesn't either, although I've read they do, and are harder to sand out than the segmented knives. I'm sure they both do if you look with a magnifying glass, but they are of no consequence, ie, a non issue to me.

What is an issue to me is I should have replaced my flat bladed jointer with a spiral cutter head a long time ago. Now, I'm too old, and don't do enough woodwork to justify it. I thought about getting a replacement cutter head years ago but didn't, now I still think about it every time I use it, can't justify it. They say it's not what you did that you regret, but what you didn't do... That's what I'm talking about, and why I say spend the extra on this.

Reply to
Jack

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