Review of the new Porter Cable 895PK- Part 1

[Neal]

YJJim,

I'm glad you are pleased with your router. I have spent more time with mine and I have decided to not return it. I understand the points you made but I don't see how you could get the auto collet lock to work with the routers switch in the on position. There is a safety feature on the router that prevents the lock from working with the switch in the on position. Could yours have broken already?

I think the main point Greg was making was the sloppiness of the plunge base. I again tried it with the plunge base and I did get good consistent results but I am concerned about what those results will be after a few years of use. I finally talked to someone at Porter Cable and was told to take it to a service center for them to look at it. I live 45 miles from the service center in Atlanta so I don't know when I will follow through with that.

One of Greg's concerns was that the majority of the router may have been made in China. I emailed Porter Cable and their response was that there is only one part of the router made in Taiwan and that is part number 75301 which is the adjustment shaft that you put through the base to adjust the height. Everything else is made in the USA. I hate to think that something made in the USA is of lower quality than what is made in China. If it was made in China, I probably would have returned it. The motor unit appears to be very well made and runs very smooth and quiet and has a lot of power. I guess time will tell if this was a good router choice.

Neal

[Greg G.]

I'd bet a donut that his plastic slide is broken on the end. Probably happened without him even noticing.

One of my more critical complaints. The lack of real bushings bothers me...

Now THAT is a flat-out lie. I took the thing apart, and the bearings are clearly stamped MADE IN CHINA, the soft-start/speed controller is made in Holland.

What he SHOULD have said is that sub-assemblies are assembled in USA. The component parts are imported.

I haven't made up my mind on the return factor. Returning items to Amazon can be a real PITA.

The motor DOES run smoothly at speed, although the start-up is irregular - a side effect of the digital stepper in the controller. No big deal.

But I REALLY wish they had put better bushings in the plunge base. The numerous little quirks eventually add up, giving a generally weak feel to the product. It needs a little tweaking to become a superior Porter Cable caliber tool, imported parts not withstanding.

Greg G.

[Daniel Martin]

Glad I chose the Bosch 1617 EVSPK. When I bought my slide miter saw I also chose Bosch over PC.

D.Martin

[Tom M.]

I have the Dewalt DW618pk kit, and it IS made in USA. The two base kit usually goes for $239 (I paid $199 at a woodworking show), and the three base kit (includes D-handle) I've seen for about $279. My impression is that it's a very well designed router kit...easy motor removal, clear lexan base plates, quick disconnect power cord, stationary switch position, excellent dust collection, etc. It's also the smoothest, quietest router I've ever used. Fit and finish is very nice, no rough edges or corrosion problems, and it looks to be less top-heavy than the others. I admit I haven't used the Bosch or the new PC kits, but there's no question in my mind that the Dewalt is in the same league and should not be overlooked.

Tom

[Blue]

I too am dissatisfied with the 890 (895 package) and I haven't even put it in a table yet. Immediately discovered that the arbor lock was useless on the plunge base and the "thumb" switch was useless as well. Why would they position the thumb switch so it could not be used on a plunge base, for heaven's sake???? That is the base you use the most for manual routing! I called PC and complained that the router collet nut is a hair too large to fit thru the hole in the baseplate (even with the dust collection insert thing removed) therefore the arbor lock was useless. Their solution was to send me another baseplate identical to the one on the fixed base which has a larger bit hole! Then today, I had the need to use one of my 1/4" bits so I pulled out the included 1/4" collet. The darn thing was so tight I couldn't get the bit in without tapping it with a mallet (that's good for your bits!) and then I had to remove the collet and put it in a vise and tap the bit out from the bottom to get it out! It was the same with all 1/4" bits (Freud and CMT) so I know it is the collet and not a rogue bit shank. Sheesh! Didn't anyone at PC actually use this thing before they put it into production? Hard to tell what I will find when I put it in a table. This is the first PC product I have bought and it may be the last.

ngover theory

[Larry Jaques]

On Sun, 04 Jan 2004 01:58:20 GMT, "Blue" brought forth from the murky depths:

Hey, that little HFT router for $69.95 doesn't look so bad now...

(4,378 odd lines snipped here, too.)

======================================================== TANSTAAFL: There ain't no such thing as a free lunch.

Gourmet Web Applications ==========================

[Mark Wells]

Thank you all for your feedback. I was considering buying this router, but no more. On Amazon.com, all the ratings are glowing, so for the good of the woodworking public, it would be nice if one of you guys entered your own rating.

Thanks again for the reviews!

Mark

[william kossack]

As a general rule in online surveys where input is given on a voluntary 'call in' basis, complainers are more vocal and give a negative bias to any information provided. Take any such information with significant amounts of salt.

If your into believing what the the talk radio/shock jocks say on their programs then take all that is said hear as true. If your wise you will take what is said here and then examine it for the truth it contains or its value before making a decision.

I'm sure they will flame me for this posting and I will be staying away for a while January is going to be a busy month.

PS commercial reviews also tend to be biased by large advertis>Thank you all for your feedback. I was considering buying this

[Mark & Juanita]

Maybe so if we could figure out just what it is you are trying to say.

[Greg G.]

I DID enter a review on Amazon. It has never appeared.

Greg G.

[Hank]

work very well on the fixed base. The > adjustment

I'm just about ready to take the plunge on a PC 895 and then I read this. Now I'm not sure what to buy?? I liked the PC but your making me a little nervous about it. My other thought was to go with the Dewalt DW618 any thoughts?? yuou guy's seem to really know your stuff and I'm buying my very first router. Thanks

[YJJim]

Well, I finally remembered to look at the lockout slide that is supposed to keep you from changing bits while the power is on. I don't know if mine is broken or if it is supposed to work this way. When I raise the router to its highest position using the above the table tool, it locks the collet fine. When I take the router out of the table and do it by hand, the lock seems to work. I can force the router past the lock, but it is hard by hand. When using the above the table tool, it happens easily. It looks like the added torque of the tool allows it to force the locking pin past the lockout slide. However, the slide does not appear to be "broken", but rather just takes a lot of force to push the pin through the slide.

That said, maybe I did break it the first time I tried to raise it all the way up? Does anyone know if this is supposed to happen? Is this a safety risk that I should be concerned about? Should I consider taking it back? Personally, I like the way it works for me right now, but I'm concerned that it will get more loose over time and the lockout won't work at all. Is that likely a real issue on the fixed base? Since I wouldn't be adjusting the height while running the motor, I'm not sure this could be a real safety concern.

YJJim

[Greg G.]

I wouldn't worry about it - it's a dumb design anyway. I considered cutting the end of the plastic slide off myself. I think I have enough sense not to raise the router up till the pin locks with the power on - besides, it probably wouldn't lock anyway, only make a horrible sound... If you really forced it, it might lock - or break off the pin housing... FWIW,

Greg G.

[Carmmond]

I'm in the same boat as you but this will be my second router. The first one was the $99 router and table setup from Craftsman. It is so hard to use I always find a work around so I don't have to use it:) I have been looking at the Milwaukee 5616-21 2-1/4 Max HP EVS BodyGrip Router Kit. I don't know if anyone here has input on that model but look into it.

[Neal]

I've had more time to work with the PC 895 router and although Greg brought up some good points especially with the plunge base, the router performs very well. I am very impressed with its performance in a table with the fixed base. The adjustment works perfectly and I can't think of anyway it could be improved upon. It has plenty of power and runs very quiet. I have not worked with the plunge base very much but I have had good consistent results with it each time I tried it. I only paid $200 for it and I don't think that I could do better for that amount. Time will tell.

Neal

[Blue]

Neal, I am assuming that you plug the router into a switch in your table? I don't have a table with a switch (just threw together a benchtop table) but I can't see anyway to mount the router so I can still reach the switch (have it in front) and use the thru the table adjustments while using a bit enclosing fence. The adjustment holes are located so they fall right below the fence and obviously, I don't want to move the fence setup to make height adjustments. Maybe I am missing something here...when this darn cold weather passes and I can get back out in my shop, I will re-evaluate the situation. The router does do a nice job and is VERY quiet!