Reswing Wide Board question

[Brian Siano]

I'll probably see about buying an old one. But I've also been brain-playing with some kind of mount that'd keep the thing to a roughly uniform thickness-- say, having a guide mounted parallel to the blade, so keep the depth of cut roughly uniform. Thing is, such a guard'd run cross-wide to the motion of the saw.

And, given the size of the boards I'm thinking of, I'm wondering if there's some way of running the blade horizontally-- letting the board rest flat on a work surface, and have the blade run back and forth, like a horizontally-mounted jigsaw. Interesting problem...

[Patriarch]

"TheNewGuy" wrote in news: [e-mail]:

OK, I made a couple of bad assumptions. My fault.

Many of us use 'lunchbox style' planers, which use disposable (non- resharpenable) blades. These are seldom HSS. But they are consumables. Mine run maybe $30 a set, with two edges per. For what you're describing, I have used at least $45 worth of edges. Or more.

And you can put a new edge on _your_ planer blades with any number of easy and/or economical methods, either yourself, or professionally.

Having removed the material yourself, you have a better idea where the metals are/were. The detector will help.

It's the paint that's abrasive, as well as the embedded grit from weather exposure. Those are going to be what gnaws at your blades. BUT, in your situation, I'd do exactly as you propose, after ordering a new set of planer blades from the local sharpening shop. Because I'd be bringing in the used ones as soon as I got the deck rails surfaced.

You now have my blessing. (tongue firmly planted in left cheek.) Unless you WANT to buy a drum sander, that is. Then you have an excuse.

Patriarch

[lgb]

And using a thin kerf blade makes a nice guide for the handsaw, keeping it on the path of least resistance.

[mac davis]

IMHO, unless the baseboards are at least 1" thick, don't resaw them.. who wants a 1/4 or 3/8 baseboard? it would look like woodgrained plastic glue on...

If you have a lot of base boards and are determined to resaw them, I'd suggest looking into a local lumber yard of cabinet shop that does a lot of resawing, and having them do it.. cheaper than buying a BS, unless you really need one, and if they screw it up, well... they did, not YOU... YMMV

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

[Patriarch]

Brian Siano wrote in news:d6ib6l$22sb$ [e-mail]:

Seems such a lot of work to reinvent the "bandsaw with featherboards and a fence".

Patriarch

[TheNewGuy]

[quote intentionally transmogrified]

Wow, this is better than a note from the doctor!

"But Honey, Partriarch SAID ...."

:^)

[Patriarch]

"TheNewGuy" wrote in news: [e-mail]:

But the doctor can help cure the aftermath, whereas I cannot. Did the include file not make it? The one with the disclaimers?

AT YOUR OWN RISK! I will not pay your Mastercard bill! ;-)

Patriarch

[Australopithecus scobis]

Oh, such ideas. You'd want two adjustable fences, one either side of the blade. Coat 'em with slippery tape. Run 'em in slots through the crossarms. Don't need much travel 'cuz we're only ever going to cut narrow stuff.

Buy one? You can cobble up a frame resaw from just about anything.

Bandsaw with featherboards and a fence is nice if you're a normite.

[Brian Siano]

Oh, I wouldn't re-install it as 1/4" or 3/8" thick baseboard. I'd glue it onto a cheaper substrate, like oak or pine or even MDF, and use _that_.

Happily, there is a lumber yard within walking distance. If they have a bandsaw of the right capacity (that is, it can cut at least 8-12" high), I'll ask if I can bring a piece for some test cuts.

I'm still thinking of ways of developing a framesaw jig for the project, however.