Not always. At least one thing I built of pine has the pitch come
through several coats of shellac. It came from a batch of pine that is
*extremely* pitchy. Sometimes you just gotta put it in the burn bin
Did you stain or paint the wardrobe? How long ago did you apply the finish?
I try to avoid areas where pine has a depression with pitch sitting right in
it. But I have been able to remove the resin with turps and then fill
depression with wood filler and that is that.
If you want to stain the pine, you have to pick your pieces very carefully.
The knots have to be attached to the surrounding wood entirely, then you can
even stain the piece you are working on and then seal with shellac - more
than one coat, say 3 or 4. Then apply whatever finish you want. I have pine
pieces done like this where the knots are 2x4" ovals and the finish is
intact after 30 years. If a pine knot drops out and you still insist on
staining then clean up the area with turps, get rid of any remaining brown
areas and patch with wood filler. When the filler is completely dry and
sanded level you can use acrylic paint to paint wood grain onto the wood
filler, and finish as desired.
If you are painting the wardrobe you still have to clean up any resin you
see and any area you think will leak resin with turps and then shellac the
area with 3-4 coats and then paint as you wish. Some of the guys said they
used wood filler to make a raised area over the shellac - adding a layer of
wood filler - and then sanding the "hill" almost flat. I can't make that
look good but I thought I'd mention it.
Kilz should do a good job of sealing up pine knots. I'd clean with turps
carefully first and then use the oil based Kilz and use a couple or three
Agreed. The hardwood only snobs look down their noses at pine, but a lot of
very nice furniture has been build out of pine. If one can get over the
false notion that pine is junk, one can turn out some beautiful and very
long lasting stuff out of pine.
Southern Yellow Pine is pretty darn hard and dense. Some pine is soft
and some pine is hard. There are plenty of hardwoods that are softer
than SYP. I am not sure if SYP is technically a species or if Longleaf
Pine and Loblolly Pine are some of the heavy and hard.
Pine does show it's age but not as bad as you might believe. I have a pine
end table and coffee table that my father built in 1975. We lived in Japan
then. It has been shipped to eastern Washington, used there for a few years,
put into a storage unit for a number of years, brought out and trucked to
western Washington were it is now. Still looks pretty good, all things
Long before I ever did any woodworking, we bought a Bennington Pine dining
room set in 1976. Added the kitchen table and chairs in 1981. Sure, it has
a few marks from daily use, but is still in great shape. Quality furniture
that is well made. We got the Admiral's chairs too. Sort of like the
popular Captains chairs, only larger and more comfortable. I suspect this
can last another 100 years or more.
Don't ever let anyone tell you that pine is cheap or not a good material.
I've made plenty of stuff from it too.
There certainly is pine that's not junk, but most of the pine that's
available today is barely construction grade, not furniture grade. And
most of it isn't pine ayway, but hemlock or spruce (in the UK at least).
I'd select the boards more carefully. I wouldn't necessarily throw
resiny pine out as firewood, but I wouldn't use it for wardrobes either.
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