Repair Split in Oak

A 3 inch long split has developed along width in a finished white oak side panel (1 1/4 inches x 9 inches x 26 inches) because I moved it from high humidity workshop to low humidity in house for final assembly without acclimatizing it. Doh! I returned it to workshop and split has completely closed. I will acclimatize piece before moving it back into house. Any recommendations on a low viscous adhesive that I could apply along the closed split that would be drawn in by capillary action? I don't really want to reopen the split to apply adhesive. Also, I dont want to remake the panel unless I really have too.
Cheers
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A panel that is 5/4's thick...zoweee. You could try inlaying a bowtie / butterfly patch (call it a feature enhancement...) to keep it from splitting but any glue applied will simply tear the next layer of wood when it opens again. The glue will be stronger than the wood - so when this crack opens, the glue joint probably won't fail but you'll find that about 1/128" away from the original crack will be another.
Bob S.

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Woodshavings, 1 1/4 thick?? I will assume you meant one panel 1/4" thick.
I have used Instant Glue (Cyanoacrylate) and an accelerator for minor splits, Also a chair repair glue will work. Either can be applied and with minimal pressure (hand) they will make a permanent bond.
Dave

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Why not apply glue to one side while holding the hose of a vacuum to the other side? You don't need to depend on capillary action with the assistance of air pressure. The technique is fresh in my mind since I just finished doing the same thing, albeit on a smaller scale.
Ron
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Thanks for the help - (Dave yes it is 1 1/4 inch thick, solid beautiful white oak !!) Woodshavings
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I'd love to see a picture! Ron's repair might work better for that thick.
Dave

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What do you think caused the crack in the first place? What have you done besides adding glue at this point to prevent it from splitting again? It will split again and putting a band-aid on it is not the cure but you can always hope.
Bob S.

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Hi Bob,
The reason for the split was that I stupidly took the panel from my workshop, where the humidity had been 70 to 80% for the prior 3 to 4 weeks, into my centrally heated house (RH 25%) in order to finish the assembly. (need a bigger workshop !) Worse, I left it near the radiator over night - next morning the split had appeared. I moved it back into the workshop and the split completely closed up. I am now slowly conditioning the the panel to my house conditions, so far, so good. Lesson learned!
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You need a drier workshop.

You need a much more humid house, 25% is not a healthy environment.
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto: snipped-for-privacy@physik.uni-bonn.de Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
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Yes...at least 35 to 40% is recommended but then the moisture condenses on the windows, freezes and creates problems. Sometimes ya just can't win....
Bob S.
Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869

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Okay - your heater created stress by drying out one side, very quickly. The glue fix, however you do it should be fine but I doubt if its even necessary for a panel that has nothing to support load wise.
Bob S.

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Hi, What you use a panel that thick for? JG
Woodshavings wrote:

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Its a King Size Futon bed base - The head and bottom panels are 1 1/4 inch thick Oak, the two side panels from 1 inch thick Oak.
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If the split is such that you can remove it by ripping the panel and you can stand for the panel to be a tad smaller that will give you the best repair. Sawing the panel will get rid of stress in the adjoining wood. If you get a good scald on the joint when you glue it back together it should be almost invisible. Earl Creel

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I agree with Bob and Earl in that you must remove the stress point that caused it to fail along that line when the humidity changed. I had a similar experience with a 1 1/2" thick pub table which split at the client's home during the winter. As I did not want to be called back again, I ripped about 2" out of the offending area and replaced it with a new piece. The failed section had been the core of the original log. Since then I never use the centre 4x4 of a log for furniture. Cheers, JG
Earl Creel wrote:

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I have an oak table that developed a split. I took a couple mending plates, just steel straps with some holes in them, and drilled holes in either side of the split about 1/16" further apart then the holes in the plates. When I screwed them in place the split was drawn together.
I didn't expect this to work, but didn't know what else to do. It has been about a year now, and the split has remained closed. Since yours has already closed up, you should have an even easier time of it.
Of course, my plates are on the bottom where no one sees them. It won't work very well if it is exposed.
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