Removal of Morse Taper Mounted Chuck

[Joe AutoDrill]

33 second video...

'm working on a bunch of "how to" videos. Any tips from those who use such machines? This was one of our first tries a few months back...

Regards, Joe Agro, Jr. [phone]

01.908.542.0244 Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: Spindle Drills: Tapping: Site:

[mjmwallace]

This is was great. However, my drill press - Delta 17-965, does NOT have a slot in the chuck column for a drift pin. Is there any other device I can use to get the chuck out?

Good short, to the point video. The sound is a bit "rough" though. You should perhaps invest in a good label mike.

MJ

[Joe AutoDrill]

(top posted for easy reading this time - forgive me if this offends you...)

MJ,

All Delta 17-965 series have J3 Jacobs tapers as far as I know.

Other Delta drill presses with similar tapers are: 11-280, 11-090, 11-990,

15-660, 17-990

You need a wedge set to remove those and here are the basic directions:

is the wedge set you would need to purchase:

want to get at least one, possibly two sets of item 29225A36.

Before you remove it, you should consider these facts:

1. Jacobs Taper machines are more "fragile" in that you can't keep taking off the chuck and replacing it for very long. Sooner or later, the tapers become too "worked" to stay together well and your chuck will either fall off or worse, spin and mark the surfaces up beyond repair. Some will use find sandpaper to "rough up" the surfaces for a second or two prior to cleaning and re-installation. To give you some idea how I view these tapers, my mid-size AutoDrills have a Jacobs J33 taper. I hydraulically press the chucks on and call them permanent mounts. Nobody gets them off without damaging something. If they need to change the chuck, they must send the spindle to me or buy a new spindle and chuck. It's not meant to be a convenient mount for swapping out chucks.

1. If you do decide to remove it, grind the tips of those wedges sharp so they engage better. Once the chuck is off and you are ready to mount the new device, clean both surfaces with a strong solvent that does not leave a film. I personally use acetone as it is quick drying and generally leaves so little film that it doesn't matter. Whack it onto that taper with gusto but not so hard that you damage the spindle or bearings. We use a 3# rubber face hammer and go at it like Babe Ruth when we can't access the hydraulic press.

...E-mail me and I'll send you a portion of my drill's manual in PDF format. (anyone can request actually... I don't mind sending it out.)

As for the sound quality... Yep. I'm using a handheld digital camera (photo camera) so a digital video camera is on my short list of purchases... This camera doesn't have the ability to accept an external mic.

Regards, Joe Agro, Jr. [phone]

Joe,

This is was great. However, my drill press - Delta 17-965, does NOT have a slot in the chuck column for a drift pin. Is there any other device I can use to get the chuck out?

Good short, to the point video. The sound is a bit "rough" though. You should perhaps invest in a good label mike.

MJ

[Larry W]

Joe, I must respectfully disagree with your observation on repetitive mounting & unmounting of Morse tapers. A properly machined taper on the appropriate type of steel can be inserted and removed without damage. Witness that years ago, larger sizes of drill bits were common that had The male Morse taper formed direcly on the shank. I haven't seen these used much in recent years, but they were made to be installed and removed as required.

BTW, if you need to remove a chuck from either the jacobs taper or the morse taper and don't have the proper tools, a make-do is to chuck a large rod or allen wrench or similar in the chuck and start tapping on it sideways, rotation and striking it from all angles. After about 5 minutes or less, the chuck will fall off. Cheaper presses with the Jacobs taper machined directly in the end of the shaft will of couse separate there. With machines that use a morse/jacobs mandrel, _usually_ the Morse taper will separate first.

In my experience, a sure fire way to get a chuck to fall off a drill press is to put an endmill in it, clamp a cross-slide vise to the table, and try to mill something in steel. Almost guaranteed to make the taper separate before you finish!

[Stuart]

I thought that for a moment then thought "hang on, he's talking about a Jacobs taper not a morse taper", there are undoubted differences.

Drills with a morse taper shank are still very common and easily available though mostly you will see then in sizes over 1/2". My own drill press has a No1 Morse taper up the spindle and, though it normally has a chuck mounted to take standard parallel shank drills, I have a set of drills from 1/8" to 1/2" with a No1 Morse taper shank.

All tapers require proper care in their use, of course.

[Joe AutoDrill]

Larry,

Re-read my post. Morse tapers can be removed and re-installed all day long. no issues as long as you clean 'em and don't abuse them. Not so true of Jacobs Tapers though... And the Jacobs is the type I was referring to when I said it's not a good idea.

My larger AutoDrill unit has a female MT2 shank because MT2 tools are available... and because MT2 tools with a draw bar are available. It's an excellent mount.

[Larry W]

You are right, of course, I misunderstood your first post.

:wq

[Joe AutoDrill]

No worries!